Exploring Medellín Colombia: Photography, El Poblado & Downtown
Medellín is one of Colombia’s most visually interesting cities, surrounded by the steep green mountains of the Aburrá Valley. I spent two days photographing Medellín from El Poblado rooftop bars, Pueblito Paisa, Plaza Botero and downtown, while learning when carrying professional camera equipment was—and wasn’t—worth the risk.
Day One — Exploring Medellín and El Poblado
I stayed near the top of a hill in El Poblado, one of Medellín’s wealthier neighborhoods. My hotel was nice and had a rooftop with excellent views of the city—and a sauna.
A sauna.
Why there was a sauna instead of a swimming pool was beyond me. When I’m hot, my first thought usually isn’t, You know what would make this better? More heat.
El Poblado itself is attractive, with modern architecture, lush vegetation and great views of the mountains surrounding Medellín. It’s also very hilly, so be prepared if you plan to explore on foot.
The main tourist areas—Parque Lleras and La Provenza—weren’t really my thing. They’re packed with restaurants, bars, nightlife and security. I didn’t come to Colombia to party or pick up women—and potentially wake up the next morning without my phone, wallet or functioning kidneys.
By this point in the trip, I was admittedly a little paranoid about security. I actually carried an old dead iPhone in my pocket in case someone robbed me.
Here you go, señor. Enjoy your new paperweight.
Dinner the first night was at a gyro restaurant, which seemed like an interesting culinary choice for Colombia. The second night I ordered a Colombian hot dog covered with so many unidentified ingredients that I still don’t know what I ate. I initially thought the counter was for the sushi restaurant next door.
I should have ordered the sushi.
Photographing the Medellín Skyline from El Poblado
Medellín’s temperatures were surprisingly comfortable, although my first day was cloudy. I spent part of sunset at 360 Rooftop Bar, which has excellent views across El Poblado and the surrounding mountains.
The weather didn’t cooperate, but the viewpoint was good and it wasn’t particularly crowded—which surprised me because I’d arrived during Colombia’s Independence Day celebrations.
Rooftop bars turned out to be some of my favorite places to photograph Medellín. They’re high enough to provide separation between the buildings without putting you so far above the city that everything becomes tiny.
Drink beer. Scout locations.
Multitasking.
Apparently I Look Like Mr. Cocaine
I also discovered that I must resemble some sort of Colombian celebrity.
More than a few people muttered something that sounded like “Cocaine” as I walked past.
Maybe he’s one of the Colombian Baldwin brothers? Another Skarsgård? How many Skarsgårds are there, anyway?
There were also a few younger women who suddenly seemed unusually interested in me.
Now, I was dressed reasonably well. South Americans tend to dress nicely, so I had on a button-down shirt and decent shoes.
But I’m also old enough to understand basic math.
If you’re an out-of-shape middle-aged tourist and an attractive 20-year-old stranger suddenly finds you fascinating, perhaps stop congratulating yourself on your irresistible charm and consider alternative explanations.
Medellín is a big city.
Big cities have big-city problems.
Photographing Pueblito Paisa at Sunrise
The next morning I took an Uber to Pueblito Paisa before sunrise.
The reconstructed Antioquian village is beautiful early in the morning, and I got some excellent photographs of the colonial-style church and buildings without crowds.
However, here’s an important update for photographers: the famous overlook isn’t as open as many older photographs and travel guides suggest.
Trees have grown around much of the viewpoint, so instead of an unobstructed panorama of downtown Medellín, you’re now looking through gaps in the vegetation.
I walked down the hill afterward and crossed a very busy road to photograph the river and southern portion of the city. Then I stopped at a Brazilian restaurant near a Metro station for breakfast.
It was delicious.
I have absolutely no idea what I ordered.
Downtown Medellín and Plaza Botero
I’d booked a downtown tour through Expedia, but it was canceled because there weren’t enough participants.
This worked out surprisingly well.
I hate tours.
I’m also stubborn.
Like, really stubborn.
Everything I’d read about Colombia repeated the phrase “no dar papaya”—basically, don’t make yourself an easy target by flashing valuables.
It nearly killed me to do it, but I left my expensive camera equipment at the hotel and headed downtown with just my phone.
Downtown Medellín was chaotic: crowds, street vendors, traffic, homelessness and some fascinating architecture all packed together.
At Hotel Nutibara, I noticed other people walking inside and casually joined them, pretending I knew exactly where I was going. I took the elevator/escalator up for the classic view overlooking Plaza Botero. This is THE photograph I had to get.
I’m not sure whether you’re supposed to ask permission.
I didn’t ask.
That way nobody could tell me no.
I do this quite a bit when traveling. Act confident and people don’t stop you. Seriously.
Plaza Botero and the surrounding streets were some of the most interesting parts of downtown photographically. I also bought a couple of World Cup shirts from street vendors for around 35,000–40,000 pesos (approx. $15 USD)
A Photography Safety Lesson
I was comfortable enough using my phone downtown because practically everyone around me also had phones out.
A large professional camera would have been different.
During my entire time downtown, I don’t remember seeing another person carrying a large interchangeable-lens camera. That doesn’t automatically mean carrying one is dangerous, but I prefer not to be the only person advertising several thousand dollars of equipment.
Sometimes getting the photograph isn’t worth showing the papaya.
The only moment when my instincts really started screaming was near Metropolitan Cathedral of Medellín at Parque Bolívar. A group of guys was standing along my route toward the church. Something about the situation didn’t feel right.
Maybe it was absolutely nothing.
I looked once, turned around and walked the other way.
One advantage of getting older is realizing you don’t have to prove your instincts wrong.
Sunset at Envy Rooftop
That evening I returned to El Poblado for dinner at Envy Rooftop.
The views were beautiful.
The experience? Less so.
The staff struck me as unnecessarily pretentious. One employee wasn’t happy when I took photographs and wanted me to move tables, despite the place being practically empty. Several of the taller tables with better views were apparently reserved, so I eventually ended up sitting at a table in or beside the pool.
Beer was around 35,000 pesos.
Bring money.
The skyline views, however, were excellent.
What About Comuna 13?
Most first-time visitors to Medellín include a tour of Comuna 13. I skipped it on this trip. You can’t photograph everything, and I’d rather spend more time working a few locations properly than race around checking attractions off a list.
There are also numerous mountain viewpoints overlooking Medellín, but again, higher isn’t automatically better for photography.
If I’m creating reference photographs for future paintings, I want depth and separation between architectural elements. Once you’re too far above a city, skyscrapers stop feeling tall. Everything collapses into a pattern below you.
I prefer viewpoints where I’m elevated enough to see into the city but still low enough for the high-rises to break the horizon and dominate the composition.
That creates more movement and drama in both the photograph and the watercolor painting that may eventually come from it.
And that is why I spend an unreasonable amount of time researching rooftop bars.
It’s not drinking.
It’s location scouting.
One Final Medellín Story
I probably owe an apology to the two nuns who approached me downtown. Hissing and making cat-attack motions with my hands was perhaps not my finest diplomatic moment. It was an instinctive reaction, poorly handled, brought on by my general frustration with having religion pushed on me. My apologies, sisters. You looked very shocked!
Next: Jardin & Colombian Landscapes
Plan Your Trip to Medellín Colombia
Hotels
Cafe Hotel Medellin by Lars– is a stylish boutique hotel in Medellín’s trendy El Poblado neighborhood, offering modern accommodations within walking distance of Provenza, Parque Lleras, outstanding restaurants, cafés, and some of the city’s best nightlife. This is where I stayed in the city.
Dann Carlton Medellin– combines spacious rooms, multiple restaurants, a rooftop pool, and panoramic views of the Aburrá Valley, making it one of Medellín’s classic full-service hotels just minutes from the restaurants, cafés, and nightlife of El Poblado.
Fairfield by Marriott Medellin– offers modern, comfortable accommodations with complimentary breakfast and convenient Metro access, making it an excellent base for exploring both Medellín and the charming southern suburb of Sabaneta.
Hotel Celestino Boutique– offers stylish accommodations in the heart of Medellín’s El Poblado, placing guests just steps from Provenza’s vibrant restaurants, cafés, shopping, and nightlife.
Coffee
Unfortunately, most bakeries and coffee shops in don’t open until 8 a.m. For photographers chasing summer sunrises, that means being up hours before your first shot of caffeine—an impossible situation. I was convinced I’d die of coffee deprivation before then. My advice: stock up the day before on supermarket iced coffees and drink just enough to survive until the cafés open (a strategy I tested and can confirm works).
Tours
Find things to do in – day trips (museums and public transport), and more:
Travel Guides
Here is the recently published Lonely Planet Guide. This is what I used to plan the trip (in conjunction with the all-beloved internet):
Another travel guide available for :
Buses:
Medellín has two main bus terminals—Terminal del Sur and Terminal del Norte—located about 20 minutes apart, depending on traffic. Frequent buses connect Medellín with towns throughout the region, but for longer distances across Colombia, I would recommend flying.
Flights:
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