Old Panama, Casco Viejo & Amador Causeway: The Perfect Day in Panama City
Previous: Indigenous Village, Skyline Photographs
During one full day in Panama City you can:
- Explore the UNESCO ruins of Panamá Viejo
- Ride the Panama Metro
- Photograph Casco Viejo
- Visit rooftop bars overlooking downtown
- Watch sunset from Amador Causeway
- Photograph wildlife in Parque Metropolitano
- See “Jesus Lizards” running across water
Photography Tips for Panama City
I’d write something like:
- Visit Casco Viejo twice.
- Morning light works well in Panamá Viejo.
- Sunset belongs at Amador Causeway.
- Rooftop bars provide spectacular skyline views.
- Carry mosquito repellent.
- Bring a wide-angle lens for architecture.
- A telephoto is useful for wildlife.
There would be no afternoon siesta today.
Tragic, I know.
Exploring Old Panama
I am a sucker for ruins.
Old churches. Crumbling walls. Abandoned fortresses. If it looks like it might collapse while I am photographing it, I am probably interested.
So naturally, the UNESCO World Heritage ruins of Panamá Viejo had been calling me.
I rode the metro as close as I could, then grabbed a quick taxi to the entrance. The subway in Panama City is clean, cheap, and easy to use, although the lines are still limited. It will not get you everywhere, but it gets you close enough to make you feel like you successfully used public transportation in another country.
Small victories.
The ruins of Panamá Viejo were fascinating to explore. This was the original Spanish settlement of Panama City, founded in 1519, before much of the city was destroyed by pirate Henry Morgan in 1671. The surviving stone towers, walls, and church ruins are a wonderful reminder that history often looks best slightly broken.
However, I do need to issue one serious warning.
The mosquitoes are not messing around.
Bring repellent.
Lots of it.
I did not.
By the time I finished walking through the ruins, I looked like I had personally offended every mosquito in Central America. I had not planned on returning to my hotel afterward, but I had to go back and clean the mosquito carnage off my body.
Travel is glamorous.
Back to the Rooftops
After recovering from the mosquito ambush, I headed back downtown and made my way to yet another rooftop bar.
This time: Cielo Rooftop Bar.
Panama City may have the best rooftop bar culture of any city I have visited. The skyline is ridiculous, the bay views are beautiful, and there always seems to be another place where you can sit with a drink and pretend that photography is hard work.
From Cielo, the views of downtown were spectacular.
Again.
I was beginning to notice a theme.
Returning to Casco Viejo
The weather was perfect that afternoon, so I returned to Casco Viejo.
Photography tip: if time allows, return to the same area more than once.
The first time you visit a place, you are mostly trying to figure it out. Where is the light? Where are the best angles? What streets are worth revisiting? Where did you almost get run over because you were staring at architecture instead of traffic?
The second visit is often much better.
You see things differently. You slow down. You notice smaller details. You start recognizing which buildings, doors, streets, and viewpoints have real potential.
My return visit to Casco Viejo produced some of my favorite photographs from the entire trip. The colonial architecture, old doorways, colorful walls, narrow streets, and glimpses of the modern skyline all came together beautifully.
Several of those photographs later became watercolor paintings.
A black-and-white watercolor of Casco Viejo doorways.
A colorful Panama City street scene.
A Casco Viejo architectural painting with the modern skyline rising in the background.
This is exactly why I love returning to a place with a camera. The best image is rarely the first image.
Original SOLD. Fine art prints available
Original painting & fine art prints AVAILABLE
Sunset at the Amador Causeway
I saved one of the best views for last.
On my final evening in Panama City, I walked the Amador Causeway, which stretches out into the bay and offers incredible views back toward the skyline.
The reward was a spectacular sunset over the city.
Skyscrapers. Water. Boats. Warm light. Reflections. Clouds.
Basically, everything a travel photographer wants, short of someone handing you a cold beer at the exact moment the light gets perfect.
Those photographs later became several watercolor paintings of the Panama City skyline, including views from Mirador Amador and the waterfront.
Some places give you one good painting.
Panama City kept handing me more ideas than I had time to paint.
A terrible problem, obviously.
Original painting & fine art prints AVAILABLE
Original painting & fine art prints AVAILABLE
Returning to Parque Metropolitano
My first visit to Parque Natural Metropolitano had been fantastic, but there was one thing I wanted to photograph before leaving Panama: the “Jesus lizards.”
You know the ones.
The lizards that run across the top of water.
During my first visit, I had been walking near a pond when several of them suddenly sprinted across the surface. I had no idea they were even there until they were already moving, and by then it was too late to photograph or video them.
This annoyed me.
Not enough to ruin the trip.
But enough to make me come back.
My flight did not leave until mid-afternoon, so on my final morning I returned to the park right as it opened. My plan was simple: be the first person to reach the lake before the lizards were startled.
For once, one of my plans actually worked.
I managed to capture several videos of the lizards running across the water.
One poor guy gave it everything he had.
Unfortunately, it was not quite enough.
Time to cut back on those carbs, dude.
Watching a lizard attempt to sprint across water and fail was, strangely enough, the perfect way to end the trip.
Panama City had given me rainforest, ruins, rooftops, colonial streets, skyscrapers, sunsets, wildlife, and more painting ideas than I could possibly use in one lifetime.
Not bad for a week.
This poor guy gave it his all- it just wasn’t good enough. Time for cutting back on those carbs dude!
What a great way to end a trip. :)
Day 1: Panama City & Casco Viejo
Day 2: Portobelo & Fort San Lorenzo, Highest Rooftop Bar Central America
Day 3: Birdwatching, Ancon Hill, Sunset Views
Day 4: Indigenous Village, Skyline Photographs
Day 5: Old Panama (ruins), Casco Viejo, Amador Water Views, Parque Metropolitano
References
Hotels
AC Hotel by Marriott Panama City– Beautiful rooftop infinity pool overlooking city. Walking distance to beach
Sofitel Legend– located in charming colonial Casco Viejo neighborhood
JW Marriott– panorama rooftop views with 4 pools
W Panama– amazing views of downtown buildings
Coffee
You have to be blind to not be able to find coffee in Panama. There are shops all over the place- but not many Starbucks (thank God!). However, since I always go out very early- I usually pack some canned coffee purchased the day before at grocery/convenience store.
Tours
I booked several tours in Panama- one to an indigenous village NE of the city, and a half-day birding expedition (highly recommended).
Travel Guides
Lonely Planet Panama– While I use the internet for tons of research, I also enjoy carrying a real guidebook with me (JIC)
Travel Guide Panama City– focused solely on city and surrounding environs
Flights
I found a cheap flight on:
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Ryan Fox AWS, NWS, TWSA
Ryan Fox Painting
(919) 645-8345
Nice, clear guide — I liked the practical tips about timing and lenses. Do you have a recommendation for which rooftop bar is best for sunset photos with less crowding? I checked the weather site while planning and found the 14-day forecast helpful: https://weather.world-prices.com/panama/weather/.
Sorry for delay, I have been in Colombia. Cielo rooftop bar was one of my favorites- not far from Casco Viejo neighborhood. I took the metro down to there- super cheap.