Panama Day Trip: Portobelo, Fort San Lorenzo & Skyline Views
Previous: First Day in Panama City
Why Visit Portobelo & San Lorenzo?
Portobelo and Fort San Lorenzo are among Panama’s most important UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Once responsible for protecting Spain’s immense treasure fleets, these massive Caribbean fortifications now offer visitors fascinating history, spectacular tropical scenery, and some of the country’s best photography opportunities. If you’re interested in pirates, colonial history, or simply escaping Panama City’s skyline for a day, this is one of the best day trips in Panama.
Explore Portobelo, San Lorenzo & the Panama City Skyline
My second day in Panama was dedicated to history, photography, and eventually one of the best skyline views in all of Central America. The plan was simple: visit the Spanish colonial forts of Portobelo and Fort San Lorenzo, then return to Panama City for sunset from one of the city’s famous rooftop bars.
It turned out to be one of my favorite days of the trip.
Exploring the Spanish Ruins of Portobelo
The morning began with a drive to the historic town of Portobelo, home to one of Panama’s most important UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Rather than joining a large tour group, I hired a private guide for the day. He didn’t speak any English, which was fine. I was forced to remember my Spanish (luckily it comes back quickly).
I’ve never been much of a fan of bus tours.
They’re great if you’re on a budget, but whenever possible I’d rather have my own driver. It gives me the freedom to stop whenever an interesting church, colorful building, or forgotten ruin appears along the road—which, if you’ve traveled with me before, is about every fifteen minutes.
My guide quickly learned that photographers have absolutely no concept of “making good time.”
Why Visit Portobelo?
Founded by the Spanish in 1597, Portobelo was once one of the richest ports in the Americas. Vast amounts of gold and silver from South America passed through here before being shipped back to Spain, making the town an irresistible target for pirates—including the infamous Henry Morgan. Massive stone fortifications were built to defend the harbor, and today visitors can wander among centuries-old walls while imagining the battles that once unfolded here.
Standing among the ruins with the Caribbean Sea stretching beyond them, it wasn’t difficult to understand why the Spanish chose this location.
The scenery alone was worth the trip.
Lunch in a Small Panamanian Village
After exploring the ruins, we stopped for lunch in a nearby village.
Without thinking, I ordered a cold drink.
With ice.
Halfway through I remembered one of the oldest travel rules in the book.
“Wait… is the water safe here?”
I knew Panama City has safe drinking water, but I wasn’t entirely sure about this smaller community.
Fortunately, my stomach and I remained on excellent terms for the rest of the trip.
Disaster narrowly avoided.
Fort San Lorenzo
Our next stop was Fort San Lorenzo (Castillo de San Lorenzo Real del Chagres), another remarkable Spanish fortress guarding the mouth of the Chagres River, an important transportation route connecting the Caribbean to the Pacific long before the Panama Canal existed.
Like Portobelo, the fort is part of the Fortifications on the Caribbean Side of Panama, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The stone walls overlook dense tropical rainforest and dramatic cliffs dropping into the Caribbean Sea.
It’s an incredible place to photograph.
Oddly enough, I haven’t painted it…
Yet.
A Photograph Waiting to Become a Painting
One of my favorite photographs from the day wasn’t actually taken inside the fort.
As we were leaving, we passed a small beach where several abandoned shipwrecks rested just offshore. Families were enjoying the beach while rusting ships slowly disappeared beneath the water.
The contrast fascinated me.
That’s the photograph I know will eventually become a watercolor painting.
The funny thing is…
I have absolutely no idea how I’ll paint it.
Sometimes inspiration arrives before technique.
Sometimes technique arrives years later.
That’s simply how my artistic brain works.
I can’t force it.
Eventually the right combination of colors, textures, and techniques appears in my head—and suddenly I know exactly how the painting should look.
Until then, the photograph patiently waits.
Sunset Over Panama City
After a well-earned afternoon siesta, I headed back into Panama City.
My destination was Parque Paitilla, one of the best places to photograph the city’s incredible skyline. The contrast between the Pacific Ocean and the modern skyscrapers creates one of the most dramatic cityscapes in Central America.
From there, I continued toward the building formerly known as Trump Ocean Club, now operating as the JW Marriott Panama.
Apparently someone forgot to pay a few bills.
The name changed.
Whether you’re a fan of the man or not…
You have to admit, consistency is important.
The Highest Rooftop Bar in Central America
At the top of the tower sits one of the highest rooftop bars in Central America, and every travel article I had read insisted the panoramic views were spectacular.
Naturally, I wanted photographs.
There was just one problem.
Several websites mentioned a dress code.
Oops.
I had packed clothing designed for walking ten miles a day through tropical heat.
Not exactly rooftop cocktail attire.
My wardrobe leaned heavily toward “comfortable tourist” rather than “international businessman.”
I decided to try anyway.
Apparently Gringos Get a Pass
Outside the building I was approached by an English gentleman.
He looked at me for a moment and asked,
“Are you related to the Baldwins?”
The actors?
I stood there completely confused.
Was this a compliment?
An insult?
A practical joke?
To this day, I have absolutely no idea.
I told him I didn’t think so.
Still confused.
The strange encounter distracted me just long enough to forget about the dress code.
When I reached the rooftop, I discovered something wonderful.
Apparently underdressed American tourists are perfectly acceptable.
The only catch was that the premium center tables required a minimum spend.
No problem.
The side tables had exactly the same skyline.
I happily ordered a drink, settled into my chair, and took what can only be described as an unreasonable number of photographs.
Knowing When to Leave
As sunset approached, the well-dressed Panamanians began arriving for their evening out.
Meanwhile…
There I was.
Sweaty.
Sunburned.
Wearing hiking clothes.
I figured I’d pushed my luck far enough.
It was time to make a graceful exit.
Fortunately, Panama City has no shortage of rooftop viewpoints.
Within minutes I had found another incredible location to watch the sun disappear behind one of the most beautiful skylines in Central America.
For photographers…
There are simply too many great places to choose from.
And that’s a wonderful problem to have.
Continue Exploring Panama
Day 1: Panama City & Casco Viejo
Day 2: Portobelo & Fort San Lorenzo, Highest Rooftop Bar Central America
Day 3: Birdwatching, Ancon Hill, Sunset Views
Day 4: Indigenous Village, Skyline Photographs
Day 5: Old Panama (ruins), Casco Viejo, Amador Water Views, Parque Metropolitano
Next: Birdwatching, Ancon Hill, and another Skyline sunset
References
Hotels
AC Hotel by Marriott Panama City– Beautiful rooftop infinity pool overlooking city. Walking distance to beach
Sofitel Legend– located in charming colonial Casco Viejo neighborhood
JW Marriott– panorama rooftop views with 4 pools
W Panama– amazing views of downtown buildings
Coffee
You have to be blind to not be able to find coffee in Panama. There are shops all over the place- but not many Starbucks (thank God!). However, since I always go out very early- I usually pack some canned coffee purchased the day before at grocery/convenience store.
Tours
I booked several tours in Panama- one to an indigenous village NE of the city, and a half-day birding expedition (highly recommended).
Travel Guides
Lonely Planet Panama– While I use the internet for tons of research, I also enjoy carrying a real guidebook with me (JIC)
Travel Guide Panama City– focused solely on city and surrounding environs
Flights
I found a cheap flight on:
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Ryan Fox AWS, NWS, TWSA
Ryan Fox Painting
(919) 645-8345