Roman Ruins of Tunisia: Dougga, Carthage & El Jem
Excavated Roman ruins at the UNESCO World Heritage site atop Byrsa Hill- Carthage, Tunisia. 
Temple of Caelestis in the UNESCO World Heritage ruined Roman capitol of Dougga- Kalled Valley, Tunisia. 
El Djem (Latin Thysdrus) is a town in Mahdia 
Columned ruins of the Temple of Juno Caelestis in the former Roman capitol of Dougga- Kalled Valley, Tunisia.
Tunisia surprised me.
Before my first trip, I knew embarrassingly little about the country. I knew it was in North Africa. I knew it had Mediterranean beaches. And, most importantly, I knew they filmed Star Wars there.
Honestly, that last fact was probably enough to get me on the plane.
What I didn’t realize was that Tunisia is one of the most fascinating destinations in North Africa for exploring ancient Roman ruins. Scattered across this relatively small country are remarkably preserved amphitheatres, temples, baths, forums, columns and entire archaeological cities left behind by civilizations that controlled this strategic corner of the Mediterranean.
During my trip through Tunisia, my writer friend Laura and I explored three of the country’s most important archaeological destinations: Dougga, Carthage and El Jem. I was traveling as a professional photographer, so ancient stone architecture combined with North African light was pretty much irresistible.
Many of the photographs I made during the trip later became reference images for my watercolor paintings.
And yes, we also visited some Star Wars locations.
Obviously.
Why Tunisia Has So Many Roman Ruins
Tunisia occupies an extraordinary location on the Mediterranean coast of North Africa, directly across the sea from southern Europe. For thousands of years, this made the region an important crossroads for trade, migration, conquest and competing civilizations.
Long before Roman rule, the Phoenicians established Carthage, which grew into one of the Mediterranean’s great powers. Following the Punic Wars, Rome destroyed Carthage in 146 BC and eventually established a new Roman city on its ruins. Roman influence spread throughout the region, leaving behind cities, temples, theatres, baths, roads and amphitheatres. Carthage later became the capital of the Roman province of Africa.
Today, Tunisia contains an extraordinary concentration of archaeological sites. Carthage, Dougga and the Amphitheatre of El Jem are all UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
For someone fascinated by ruins—and carrying far too much camera equipment—it was heaven.
Dougga: My Favorite Roman Ruins in Tunisia
Of all the Roman archaeological sites I visited in Tunisia, Dougga was probably my favorite.
Known in antiquity as Thugga, the ruined city sits on a hillside overlooking a broad agricultural valley near modern Teboursouk. Unlike archaeological sites that preserve only a temple or isolated collection of columns, Dougga feels like an actual abandoned city.
You can walk among the remains of temples, baths, streets, a theatre, forum and other public buildings and begin to understand how the city was organized.
UNESCO describes Dougga as the best-preserved example of an Africo-Roman town in North Africa, with ruins representing more than 17 centuries of history and influences including Numidian, Punic, Hellenistic and Roman cultures.
That combination of preservation and setting makes the site spectacular for photography.
Photographing Dougga
Getting beautiful early light at archaeological sites can be frustrating because photographers tend to want access long before normal people have any interest in being awake.
We stayed overnight in nearby Teboursouk so we could reach Dougga early rather than driving all the way from Tunis.
The morning light sweeping across the stone ruins was worth it.
The day did, however, claim a casualty.
My beloved 28–70mm lens fell out of my camera bag and smashed onto one of the ancient stone paths. My precious!
There are few sounds more horrifying to a professional photographer than an expensive lens hitting 2,000-year-old masonry.
The Romans won.
Fortunately, this happened on the second-to-last day of the trip, so I only had to survive one more day without one of my most-used lenses.
The photographs survived, though, and images from Dougga eventually inspired several of my watercolor paintings.
From Dougga Photograph to Watercolor Painting
One of the things I enjoy about photographing ancient ruins is that the finished photograph doesn’t have to be the final product.
Years later, I can return to those images and interpret the same location completely differently in watercolor.
The columns, weathered stone, enormous skies and broken architecture at Dougga are particularly well suited to the experimental watercolor techniques I use in my work. Instead of attempting to reproduce every archaeological detail, I can simplify the architecture and let watercolor create atmosphere, texture and color.
Some of the paintings on this page show the original photographic reference beside the finished watercolor.
That transformation—from standing among the ruins with a camera to eventually interpreting the scene with paint—is one of the reasons travel continues to be the primary inspiration for my artwork.
Carthage: Roman Ruins Near Tunis
Carthage is the easiest of these major archaeological sites to visit from Tunis.
The ancient city sits along the Mediterranean near modern Tunis and Sidi Bou Said, making it an easy addition to a stay in the capital.
Carthage is different from Dougga.
If Dougga makes it easy to imagine walking through a Roman town, Carthage requires considerably more imagination.
That’s partly because Carthage isn’t simply Roman.
The original city was founded by Phoenicians and became the center of the powerful Carthaginian civilization. Rome destroyed it following the Third Punic War before a Roman city was eventually established on the same site. The archaeological landscape therefore preserves evidence from multiple periods, including Punic and Roman Carthage.
Among the most impressive surviving Roman remains are the Antonine Baths, along with portions of the theatre, amphitheatre, residential areas, cisterns and other structures.
Photographing the Ruins of Carthage
Carthage is exposed.
Very exposed.
There isn’t much shade across many sections of the archaeological site, so bring water, sunscreen and a hat.
This is especially important if you possess the mysterious British ability to stand under the North African sun while pretending sunscreen is optional.
Several people I encountered appeared determined to become the same shade of red as a boiled lobster.
Don’t do that.
From a photographic standpoint, Carthage was more challenging for me than Dougga because the ruins are less visually complete. But that can also make them interesting. Isolated columns, fragments of masonry and the remains of the enormous Roman baths provide opportunities to simplify compositions rather than trying to photograph an entire ancient city.
El Jem: One of the World’s Great Roman Amphitheatres
Then there is El Jem.
You don’t need much imagination here.
The enormous Roman amphitheatre rises above the modern town like somebody accidentally dropped part of ancient Rome into Tunisia.
Built during the 3rd century, the Amphitheatre of El Jem is the largest Roman colosseum in North Africa and one of the largest surviving Roman amphitheatres anywhere in the world. UNESCO estimates that it could accommodate approximately 35,000 spectators.
And yes—amphitheatre is the more accurate term.
“Colosseum” properly refers to the famous Flavian Amphitheatre in Rome, although the word is commonly used more broadly when describing structures such as El Jem. UNESCO itself describes El Jem as North Africa’s largest surviving colosseum while formally naming the monument the Amphitheatre of El Jem.
Whatever you call it, the place is spectacular.
I Visited El Jem Twice
I enjoyed El Jem enough that I photographed it twice during the same trip.
Laura and I visited it together, and I returned again toward the end of the trip because apparently one enormous Roman amphitheatre visit wasn’t enough.
El Jem is relatively straightforward to reach from Tunis, which made a second visit possible.
For a photographer, returning to the same location is incredibly valuable. Light changes. Weather changes. Crowds change. And after seeing a place once, you begin noticing compositions you completely missed the first time.
The amphitheatre is especially fascinating because you can photograph both its monumental exterior and the surviving interior structure. Much of the arena and underground passage system remains intact.
Several of my El Jem photographs eventually became watercolor paintings as well.
Which Roman Ruins in Tunisia Are Best?
If you’re interested primarily in archaeology, I’d visit all three because they offer very different experiences.
Dougga was my favorite for wandering and photography. It feels like an abandoned ancient city, and its hilltop setting adds dramatically to the experience.
El Jem delivers the biggest immediate visual impact. You walk into town and encounter an enormous Roman amphitheatre that would be impressive anywhere in the world.
Carthage is arguably the most historically important. The ruins aren’t as visually intact as Dougga or El Jem, but the site’s connection to the Phoenicians, Punic Wars, Hannibal and Roman North Africa makes it extraordinary—and it’s very easy to visit from Tunis.
If I could visit only one specifically to photograph ruins, I’d probably choose Dougga.
If I could show someone only one photograph to convince them Tunisia has spectacular Roman archaeology, I’d choose El Jem.
Tunisia: Where North Africa Meets the Mediterranean
The archaeology was only part of what fascinated me about Tunisia.
The country sits geographically and culturally between North Africa and the Mediterranean world. Arabic is the official language, while French is also widely used.
Laura spoke some French, so naturally I decided that meant I should attempt Arabic.
I learned a few basic phrases while traveling, and people seemed genuinely surprised—and usually amused—when I managed to produce something resembling a passable sentence.
Traveling away from Tunis and the coastal areas also revealed how varied the country is. Architecture, clothing, food and daily life changed as we moved between cities, smaller towns, archaeological sites and desert landscapes.
And then there was the coffee.
A Warning About Tunisian Coffee
I love coffee.
I also love ruins.
Combining the two seemed perfectly reasonable.
On our first day in Tunis, I ordered a coffee. It arrived in a tiny cup.
I’m accustomed to drinking three large cups of American coffee every morning. Don’t talk to me before the third cup. You have been warned.
So I looked at this tiny Tunisian coffee and thought:
That’s adorable.
I drank it.
Then ordered another.
And another.
Laura and I left the café and started wandering through Tunis when suddenly the world began to spin.
Literally.
I’d never experienced anything quite like it. I eventually had to sit down on the sidewalk because I was convinced something had gone terribly wrong.
Something had.
I had consumed three extremely strong coffees as though they were three cups of Starbucks.
Apparently size isn’t everything.
Tunisian coffee: 1. Ryan: 0.
I survived.
Barely.
Star Wars, Raiders of the Lost Ark—and Roman Africa
Of course, archaeology wasn’t the only reason Tunisia had been on my travel list.
Parts of Star Wars were famously filmed in Tunisia, and locations in the country also appeared in Raiders of the Lost Ark.
George Lucas apparently liked Tunisia.
I agree with him.
But what surprised me most about the trip wasn’t the movie locations.
It was discovering just how much history was packed into a relatively small country.
I arrived thinking about Star Wars.
I left with thousands of photographs of Roman ruins.
That’s a pretty successful trip.
Roman Ruins That Became Watercolor Paintings
Travel has been the primary muse for my artwork for decades.
I originally photographed Tunisia while working professionally as a travel photographer, and those photographs became part of an enormous archive of reference material that I continue returning to years later.
The Roman temples of Dougga and monumental amphitheatre at El Jem have inspired multiple paintings. Instead of copying the photographs literally, I use watercolor to reinterpret the stone, light, atmosphere and scale of the archaeological sites.
Some paintings are relatively traditional. Others use the experimental watercolor techniques I’ve developed and taught throughout my career.
That’s one of my favorite things about these old travel photographs: the trip ended years ago, but creatively I’m still traveling through Tunisia every time I return to them.
Is Tunisia Worth Visiting for Roman Ruins?
Absolutely.
If you’re interested in Roman history, ancient architecture, archaeology or travel photography, Tunisia deserves far more attention than it receives.
Dougga, Carthage and El Jem alone justify the trip.
Add Mediterranean beaches, historic Tunis, North African culture, desert landscapes, food and some famous movie locations, and there’s an enormous amount to explore within a relatively compact country.
Coffee. Beaches. Ruins.
Go.
And did I mention they filmed Star Wars there?
:)
Carthage Roman Ruins:
Dougga Ruins:
Planning a Trip to Tunisia
Flights to Tunisia
Most travelers land in Tunis. There are variety of airlines that fly to Tunisia:
Getting Around (Transportation)
Tunisia has a nice bus system. You can also rent a car to drive for maximum freedom:
Where to Stay While Exploring Tunisia’s Roman Ruins
Four Seasons Hotel Tunis– luxury Mediterranean beachfront resort in Gammarth, conveniently located for visiting the ancient ruins of Carthage and Sidi Bou Said. With beautiful pools, a spa and hammam, beach access, and sea-view accommodations, it’s an excellent luxury option for a Carthage-focused Tunisia trip.
Hotel St. Georges Tunis– simple, budget-friendly option in central Tunis, about a 15-minute walk from Habib Bourguiba Avenue and close to public transportation. It’s a practical base for travelers who would rather spend their days exploring Tunis, Carthage, and the surrounding historic sites.
Thabraca Thalasso & Diving– Mediterranean beachfront resort near Tabarka with a private beach, multiple pools, restaurants, and on-site scuba diving. It’s a good choice for travelers looking to combine northern Tunisia’s historic sights with a few relaxing days on the coast.
Les Mimosas Tabarka- affordable hotel with an outdoor pool, restaurant, gardens, and views of the surrounding sea and mountains. Its central location puts the marina within walking distance and Fort Tabarka and Tabarka Beach just a short drive away.
Carthage, Dougga, and Tunisia Travel Guides
I still buy at least one physical travel guide before most international trips. Phones die, internet connections disappear, and apparently I’m old-fashioned enough to appreciate having something made out of paper in my backpack.
I frequently use Lonely Planet guides for trip planning, and there are also dedicated Tunisia books for travelers interested in the history and archaeology of Tunisia
Roman Ruins in Africa Travel Guides:
Roman Africa: An Outline of the History of the Roman Occupation of Tunisia, Algeria and Libya
Carthage: Uncovering the Mysteries and Splendors of Ancient Tunisia
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