Three Perfect Days in Edinburgh, Scotland
Previous: Two Nights in Belfast
A watercolor artist’s guide to moody streets, monumental horse heads, and one life-altering morning
My girlfriend Stacy and I broke up our Ireland trip with a quick jaunt over to Edinburgh. I couldn’t resist the chance to finally see this city. We had planned a few days in Edinburgh with a day-trip to Glasgow—but three days in Edinburgh wasn’t even close to enough. We never made it to Glasgow. (Next time, right?)
Stacy and I were in Edinburgh for only three days- but they were unforgettable. Beautiful. Chaotic. And at one point, quietly heartbreaking. While we spent our days photographing the Old Town, chasing purple shadows with my camera, and trying not to slip on medieval cobblestones, I also received the news that my mother had passed away.
Grief doesn’t care if you’re halfway across the world or working on the perfect angle for a photo of Edinburgh Castle. It arrives when it wants. And strangely, Edinburgh—melancholy, windswept, atmospheric Edinburgh—felt like the right place to absorb it.
Day One: Wandering the Old Town & Letting the City Set the Tone
There have only been a few times in my life where I’ve stepped off a bus and muttered under my breath, “Holy s#$t.” The bus from the airport drops you right at the foot of the infamous Royal Mile, and what a view. I was immediately in love with this city.
The best way to understand Edinburgh is to simply start walking. You will immediately discover two things:
- Everything is uphill.
- The hills are also uphill.
We spent the day wandering the Royal Mile, absorbing centuries of history and watching the light shift dramatically every six seconds—ideal for watercolor reference photos, less ideal for staying dry. Every corner turned into another “I should paint this” moment.
Our first afternoon was spent wandering the Royal Mile and taking in the historic sites. Stacy was thrilled to find a sword shop near the hotel—on a famous street featured in Good Omens. Actually, a lot of Edinburgh seems to have been filmed at some point; I felt like I recognized half the city.
The sun never appeared during our three days. What else would I expect in October? Stacy was delighted—her skin should never see the sun anyway, she burns instantly. I welcomed the cold. After baking my way through August in Korea and Japan, the brisk Scottish air felt amazing. You can always put on more layers, right?
Original painting and prints available:
Day Two — Calton Hill & Evening with the Kelpies
I woke up super early our first morning to chase my beloved purple-light shots. Stacy is not a morning person, so she was thrilled when I returned after sunrise and delivered coffee straight to her bed. Wandering the nearly deserted Royal Mile was wonderful. By 10 a.m., even in October, the place fills with tourists, so those quiet morning streets felt like a private showing.
We ended our second evening with a visit to The Kelpies—two monumental steel horse heads between Falkirk and Grangemouth. It’s a short train ride from Edinburgh, and the statues are incredible, especially lit up at dusk during that purple glow. Up to this point, I had understood everyone we’d met in both Ireland and Scotland—yes, they speak English, but some accents might as well be separate languages. Our taxi driver from the Grangemouth station was the ONE person on the entire trip I truly struggled to understand. Even Stacy only caught about half of what he said.
Our second day in Edinburgh had been amazing but emotionally tough. That morning, my sister texted that my elderly mother wasn’t doing well. Sadly, not an unusual message—these updates felt weekly by then. That evening, while we were at the Kelpies, she texted again to say my mother was transitioning. After speaking with my brother-in-law, a neurosurgeon, it didn’t seem possible to get back to the States in time. I looked for flights to Detroit that night but found nothing under that would get me back in time (and I didn’t know how much time I had).
Purchase this original painting or prints HERE
Day 3- Somber Mood and Weather
I couldn’t bring myself to get up early the next morning. The emotions finally caught up with me. Stacy and I spent the day wandering the city, visiting the National Museum of Scotland (which is incredible). I received another text early that morning. I knew what it was. I couldn’t bring myself to open it right away. It was a hard day—grieving while surrounded by the beauty of Edinburgh.
We visited Edinburgh Castle (book tickets ahead—yes, even in October), then returned to the museum after our castle tour. We finished the evening on Calton Hill watching the sunset—a can’t-miss spot with one of the best (or the second best) skyline views. Don’t skip the views from the W Edinburgh, either. In my opinion, it’s the other “best” skyline viewpoint. The nicest part? You don’t even need to eat or drink there—just take the elevator up and shoot your photos.
I did manage to get up early the next morning for more pre-sun photo ops, heading back to Calton Hill. I knew that view would become my first Edinburgh painting. I dedicated that painting to my mother—the only person in the world who fully supported my artistic career. I know she would have been proud.
Three days was not enough. I hope to return someday and revisit this magical city.
Original 24×38″ full sheet batik painting and fine art prints available:
Next: Return to Ireland (or Where’s Me Lucky Charms?)
References:
Hotels
ibis Edinburgh Centre Royal Mile
W Edinburgh– near Calton Hill. Amazing rooftop panorama
The Edinburgh Grand– 5 Star Luxury Hotel
Coffee
Unfortunately, most bakeries and coffee shops in don’t open until 7:30/8 a.m. For photographers chasing summer sunrises, that means being up hours before your first shot of caffeine—an impossible situation. I was convinced I’d die of coffee deprivation before then. My advice: stock up the day before on supermarket iced coffees and drink just enough to survive until the cafés open (a strategy I tested and can confirm works).
Tours
Find things to do in – day trips (museums and public transport), and more:
https://expedia.com/affiliates/expedia-home.h5p5bhV
Travel Guides
Here is the recently published Lonely Planet Guide. This is what I used to plan the trip (in conjunction with the all-beloved internet):
Lonely Planet: Pocket Edinburgh
Rick Steve’s Snapshot Edinburgh
Flights:
Stacy and I took a puddle hopper from Belfast. We flew out again for our return to Dublin at the International Airport outside the city:
Trains:
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Ryan Fox Painting
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