Day 2 Iceland- Discover gigantic waterfalls & Astonishing Terrain
Route (roughly): South Coast (north of Vík) → Skógafoss → Skógar Museum → drive toward Snæfellsnes / Kirkjufell area → dinner in Grundarfjörður → hotel check-in (with a cautionary tale)
Stop 1: Skógafoss → Skógar Museum
The waterfall we somehow missed last time: Skógafoss
Our hotel was just north of Vík, and as we drove along the South Coast I spotted a massive waterfall off to the left.
Here’s the embarrassing part: I’ve been to Iceland before… with the whole family… and we somehow bypassed Skógafoss without stopping. I honestly don’t remember even seeing it. My only excuse is that we were trying to do an epic “Hella to Höfn in one day” sprint with a bunch of other stops. (A classic case of: too much ambition, not enough daylight.)
This time, Stacy and I actually had breathing room—so Skógafoss finally got the attention it deserves.
Iceland sunlight in October: a brief cameo
The sun “almost” made a few appearances. Stacy has very light skin and burns easily, so I lovingly tell people she’s basically a vampire.
I try to tell at least a few quality jokes every day, so when the sky brightened I pointed up and yelled:
“What’s that bright light up there?!”
Stacy hissed and fled. ✅
And honestly… you don’t come to Iceland in October expecting consistent sunshine anyway. The moody skies are part of the deal—and they photograph beautifully.
Skógafoss is a waterfall on the Skógá River in the south of Iceland at the cliff marking the former coastline. One of Iceland’s largest waterfalls with a drop of 60 meters, it is easily accessible.
Skógafoss: the main event
Skógafoss sits on the Skógá River in southern Iceland, right where the land drops off the cliffs that mark Iceland’s former coastline. It’s one of the country’s largest waterfalls, and it’s extremely easy to access—no heroic hike required (unless you choose violence).
The stairs: 300+ steps of character development
There’s a climb up the side with 300+ steps to the top.
Yes, I counted.
Yes, I count each step as a form of meditation.
Or self-served suffering.
Depends on the wind.
But the payoff is worth it: sweeping views of the surrounding landscape and the river launching off the cliff edge like it has somewhere important to be.
There’s also a trail that continues into the highlands. I would have happily spent a full day hiking here. Which means, tragically, I will “have to return” to Iceland again for this bucket-list item. (I accept this burden.)
Stop 2: Skógar Museum (turf houses and tough living)
Our next stop was the Skógar Museum, just down the road from Skógafoss. It’s a fascinating look at Icelandic life—especially how people survived brutal winters and the general inconvenience of living on a stunning volcanic island.
The museum includes traditional turf houses (those mossy, grass-roof cabins) that make you grateful for modern insulation, central heating, and the simple miracle of a functioning toaster.
It also hits you that technology arrived here slowly in many areas—mail was often weekly, and even now some major roads are still basically two-lane ribbons cutting through wild landscape.
In short: Iceland is gorgeous… and historically, not for the weak.
The drive toward Snæfellsnes: “Do not put your camera away”
Next destination: our hotel near Kirkjufell (Snæfellsnes Peninsula). It’s a long drive—but it’s the kind of long drive where you keep saying:
“Okay, this is the last photo stop.”
(five minutes later)
“WAIT—pull over.”
The road is punctuated by plateaus, waterfalls, misty valleys, tidal flats, cliffs, and that dramatic Icelandic light that makes you feel like you’re driving through an epic film trailer.
Photographer’s advice: don’t put your camera away. Ever. You’re going to need it again around the next bend.
The accidental detour that didn’t feel accidental
Somewhere along the way, I missed a turn.
Did it matter? Not even slightly. It was beautiful in every direction.
We stumbled onto a random waterfall (I still need to find the name—somehow it doesn’t show up on any map I’ve checked). This was one of my favorite moments of the trip:
- Free parking
- Only a few cars
- A quiet valley
- The feeling that you’ve discovered something new (even if Iceland has been discovered for… a while)
There was also a hiking trail heading deeper into the valley below—yet another reason I’d love to return and spend a full day exploring.
Dinner + the Grundarfjörður hotel warning (read this)
We ended the day with a quick dinner in Grundarfjörður, then headed to our hotel.
BEWARE (real talk):
We stayed at Dis Cottages in Grundarfjörður (near Kirkjufell). Do not stay here. I’m usually not a “let me speak to the manager” person, but this was rough:
- They never sent the check-in codes beforehand
- The water heater stopped working at 2 a.m. and started making horrible gurgling noises
- The water didn’t work in the morning
- Neither Stacy nor I slept much
- They’ve also ignored my requests for a partial refund
Which is frustrating, because I actually loved the room, the viewpoint, and the location. The execution? Not so much.
References:
Hotel
Hafnir Aparments– near Grundarfjörður
Dis Cottages– Beach cottage in Grundarfjörður with free parking (near Kirkjufell Mtn.) DO NOT STAY HERE. I am usually not a Karen about these things. The hotel did not send us the check-in codes beforehand, the water heater stopped working at 2am and started making horrible gurgling noises, and the water did not work in the morning. Neither Stacy nor I slept much. Too bad because I loved the room, viewpoint, and location. They also have ignored my requests for a partial refund.
Coffee
Unfortunately, most bakeries and coffee shops in don’t open until 8 a.m(if you are in a place with access to a coffee shop). However, since we were in Iceland in October the sunrise wasn’t too early- we slept in most mornings were up for the good light around 7am.
Most hotels have sort of a breakfast buffet where you can load up on coffee starting at 6:30.
Tours
Find things to do in – day trips (museums and public transport), and more:
https://expedia.com/affiliates/expedia-home.h5p5bhV
Travel Guides
Here is the recently published Lonely Planet Guide. This is what I used to plan the trip (in conjunction with the all-beloved internet):
Another travel guide available for :
Flights:
Most international flights fly into Keflavik, a 45-minute drive from Reykjavik. You can either take a bus from the airport into the city center (easy registration on your airplane before you arrive or desk when you land).
Trains:
There are no trains in Iceland. Nor public transit (except Reykjavik and Keflavik). Instead, rent a car:
https://expedia.com/affiliates/expedia-home.h5p5bhV
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Ryan Fox Painting
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