Best Things to Do in Riga, Latvia: Old Town Travel Guide
Previous: 1 Day in Viljandi, Estonia
Is Riga Worth Visiting?
Yes. Riga ended up being my favorite city in the Baltics.
I expected medieval streets, churches and maybe some decent photographs. I didn’t expect the enormous Central Market built from old Zeppelin hangars. Or the Art Nouveau buildings covered in faces and mythical creatures. Or the strange Soviet skyscraper overlooking the city.
Riga doesn’t really settle on one personality.
Old Town is all cobblestones, church spires and narrow streets. Walk twenty minutes and you’re surrounded by some of the most elaborate Art Nouveau architecture in Europe. Cross the river and the modern National Library looks back toward a skyline that’s hundreds of years older.
For a photographer, that’s a pretty good problem to have.
My son and I arrived around midday after taking the bus from Viljandi, Estonia. We dropped our bags near the Central Market and started walking.
A lot.
Latvian Academy of Sciences
This towering building, known locally as Stalin’s Birthday Cake, was built in the 1950s as a symbol of Soviet power. Today, it offers a panoramic viewing deck where you can gaze across the spires and rooftops of Riga’s Old Town.
Confession: we took the elevator. I call it strategic energy-saving, not cheating—at least in newer buildings. But when it comes to old churches, I draw the line. Those panoramic views? You’ve got to climb for them.
St. Peter’s Church
Dating back to the 13th century, St. Peter’s Church has seen fires, wars, and countless rebuilds. Its spire, once the tallest wooden structure in Europe, is a beacon across the city. From the top, visitors enjoy some of the best aerial views of Riga.
My son and I did climb to the top to earn the view- aerial photographs are below:
Riga Cathedral
Riga Cathedral is one of those buildings that’s difficult to ignore.
It’s enormous.
The cathedral dates back to the 13th century and dominates Dome Square, but I was more interested in how the tower kept appearing between buildings as I walked through Old Town.
That’s usually what I’m looking for when I photograph cities. Not the perfect straight-on architectural photograph. Give me a church tower squeezed between buildings, people walking through the foreground and a little visual chaos.
Eventually one of those photographs became a watercolor.
That’s why I take so many pictures when I travel. I never really know which one I’ll still be thinking about six months later.
Original painting and prints available
Riga Central Market: Zeppelin Hangars, Food & One Bad Hotel Decision
(View of Central Market during set-up time in morning (aka Quiet Time)
Housed in former Zeppelin hangars, Riga Central Market is one of the largest and most vibrant markets in Europe. Wandering through its vast halls, you’ll find stalls brimming with smoked fish, hearty dark rye bread, and glittering heaps of amber jewelry. At sunset, the golden spire of St. Peter’s Church rising above the market halls creates a scene straight out of a postcard.
We stayed in a hotel right in the market area, which offered a convenient location—just a short walk to the bus and train stations and the UNESCO-listed Old Town. Unfortunately, the experience itself was less than ideal. With no AC, open windows brought in not only the summer heat but also the late-night bustle of the market. To make matters worse, cigarette smoke drifted up from the chain-smoking owners downstairs. Still, every trip seems to come with one less-than-perfect stay, and this was ours.
Best Views Over Riga
St. Peter’s Church: best Old Town perspective
Latvian Academy of Sciences: broad skyline and Old Town view
Radisson Blu Skyline Bar: best option for sunset with a drink
The Skyline Bar at the Radisson Blu offers sweeping views over Old Town, the Daugava River, and the bridges beyond. It’s the perfect spot to sip a cocktail while watching the sunset bathe Riga’s rooftops in gold.
Ok, I might have had a strong drink. The horizon line is nowhere near even. I swear I do have pictures where it isn’t crooked- I’m looking right now.
Riga Art Nouveau Architecture: Don’t Miss Alberta Street
Riga’s Art Nouveau district feels completely different from Old Town. More than a third of the city center contains Art Nouveau architecture, but Alberta Street is where I’d start.
Faces stare down from buildings. Mythical creatures hang over doorways. Balconies, flowers and sculptures cover entire façades.
It’s almost too much to photograph.
Almost.
I loved this picture of the Art Nouveau buildings in the Central District reflect on a car. Would I be crazy to try to paint this scene? I guarantee I would go cross-eyed (eventually). :)
National Library of Latvia
Across the river, the stunning National Library of Latvia—known as the Castle of Light—rises like a beacon of knowledge and cultural pride. Its bold modern architecture creates a dazzling contrast with the charming, historic skyline of Old Town. Stepping inside, the library itself is an inspiring experience, though one thing might surprise visitors: the city views. A textured film on the windows softens the sightlines, keeping you from enjoying those crisp, sweeping aerial views of Riga you might expect.
From Riga Photographs to Watercolor Paintings
Original painting and fine art prints available
Riga gave me exactly what I hope for when I travel: far more photographs than I know what to do with.
Some will never become anything. Others keep bothering me.
Those are usually the ones I eventually paint.
The church towers and narrow streets of Riga Old Town have already become several watercolors, and I keep returning to the photographs because the city changes completely depending on the light.
That’s the real reason I travel with too much camera equipment. I’m building a reference library.
I may be painting from these photographs twenty years from now.
Riga Latvia cityscape street scene Old Town Eastern Europe Baltic Nations skyline travel decor handmade item 
Handmade watercolor painting of Riga historic center and church tower 
Latvia travel wall art featuring Riga Old Town narrow street watercolor 
Original watercolor of Riga Old City architecture with people walking 
Riga Latvia Old Town watercolor painting historic street scene art
Purchase this original painting & giclee prints
Watch the painting (above) come alive on my BLOG post
Explore More Baltic Travel Guides
- Lithuania Travel Guide
- Riga Latvia Travel Guide
- Tallinn Estonia Travel Guide
- Kaunas Lithuania Travel Guide
Next: Old Town Vilnius, Lithuania
Plan your Trip to Riga
Where to Stay in Riga
While our hotel had a prime location near the Central Market—just a short walk from the train and bus stations, the medieval city center, and the Latvian Academy of Science—it left much to be desired. The biggest drawback was the pervasive smell of cigarette smoke drifting up from the chain smokers downstairs. Without an AC unit, opening the windows only brought in more of the market’s late-night clamor. My son, more sensitive to noise than I am, found the unpredictable sounds especially disruptive.
✨ Travel Tip: If you’re planning a visit to Riga, consider staying a bit farther from the Central Market. You’ll still be within easy reach of the city’s highlights, but you’ll likely enjoy a quieter, fresher, and more restful experience.
I will stay at this hotel next time:
or here: Wellton Centrum Hotel Spa
Other Riga Hotels:
If I HAD the money, I would have stayed in this hotel:
Coffee
Latvian bakeries and coffee shops do not open until 7:30am. If you are a photographer getting photographs in the summer- that means you will be awake hours before a coffee shop is open. This is unacceptable and I will DIE beforehand. I highly recommend stocking up on iced coffees available at supermarkets the day before and drink enough to sustain yourself until the coffee shops open (exactly what I did). My son and I ate breakfast after 8am when coffee shops started opening.
Travel Guides
Here is the new recently published Lonely Planet Guide. This is what I used to plan the trip (in conjunction with the all-beloved internet):
Lonely Planet Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania
Bus:
The bus from Viljandi to Riga takes approximately three hours. Tickets for buses can be found online:
https://global.flixbus.com/bus-routes/bus-viljandi-riga
Flights:
My son and took a bus from Estonia into Latvia. However, you can fly into Riga:
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Ryan Fox Painting
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