Tajikistan Travel Photography: Seven Lakes & Iskanderkul
Seven Lakes of Tajikistan
I hate group tours.
Like, really hate them.
But after several days of cities and monuments, I was starting to feel a little citied out. I needed some nature. So I signed up for a group tour to see the Seven Lakes of Tajikistan the day before.
The group met early in front of the Amir Temur Mausoleum. I had already photographed sunrise over Registan Square and walked back toward the hotel. Fortunately, I had finally found a coffee shop that was actually open 24/7, so I had two coffees before joining the tour.
This was a mixed group: an older Italian guy who was surprisingly fit, several Japanese travelers, a few German women, and a young, funny tour guide. 13 people total.
We left Samarkand around 7 a.m. and crossed into Tajikistan. The border crossing took a while and involved a lot of walking. I was actually the last person in the group to make it through because, after two morning coffees, I had to find a bathroom. Sorry guys- I made sure I was the first person to cross the border on the way back. Don’t be “that” guy/gal in the group, right?
We stopped briefly at the market in Panjakent to change some money. Completely unnecessary—we didn’t need much cash for the rest of the day—but I did buy a few bananas.
From Ecuador.
So much for eating local.
Then we started climbing into the mountains.
The Seven Lakes were beautiful. The road wound higher and higher through some incredibly arid mountains, and it was hard to believe that people manage to live in some of these places.
I should have sat in the front of the bus. The Italian guy beat me to it.
I spent most of the day toward the back, although I grabbed the front seat for the return trip.
The stops at the lakes were fairly short, which drove me a little crazy because I wanted more time to photograph. I tried to make the most of every stop, wandering around and photographing the scenery. I also spotted some cool little beetles and tiny fish in the water.
Lunch was a pretty boring plate of plov in a building near the third lake. I ate quickly and immediately headed back outside.
I was there to photograph mountains, not sit around eating rice.
On the way back to Samarkand, I sat in the front of the bus. That turned out to be a good decision—and not just for the views.
While driving through the city, a car suddenly pulled out in front of us. Our driver swerved hard to the right to avoid hitting it and nearly hit a pedestrian instead.
It was really close. The driver was visibly rattled afterward.
One thing I noticed throughout Central Asia: drivers apparently love streaming YouTube (instead of listening to radio) while driving. Usually accompanied by some truly terrible synth-heavy music.
Not good.
After returning to Samarkand, I had dinner at an overpriced restaurant because my ATM card still wasn’t working and I was running low on cash.
There was also a parrot somewhere behind me that periodically started squawking.
Because apparently every travel day needs a little extra chaos.
Iskanderkul Lake – A Beautiful Day That Nearly Killed Me
Really fun day trip to Iskanderkul Lake. I hired a private driver because I wanted to be able to stop whenever I saw something worth photographing. He picked me up in a beat-up BMW and, fortunately, didn’t drive crazy on the way there. We made plenty of stops for photographs, especially before Anzob Pass.
I’d already traveled this road when I went from Samarkand to Dushanbe, but the weather was perfect this time.
We stopped for a short hike to the Waterfall of the Fann Mountains. The first half of the trail was easy enough for 4WD vehicles, but the last half was avalanche-prone and covered with large boulders. I spent a fair amount of time having to mountain-goat my way over the rocks.
The waterfall itself was nice, but the viewing platform was the real attraction. It sticks out over a pretty serious drop, and standing on it was an adrenaline rush. I’m glad I did it, but I’m guessing plenty of tourists—with perhaps better judgment than me—would look at it (the construction) and say, “Nope.”
We continued to Iskanderkul and had lunch at the lake. I’m pretty sure I paid for my driver’s meal too. Whatever.
He wanted me to spend some time walking along the lake. I was the boss- I had other plans. We drove around the lake.
We went to the other side of the lake, saw some springs near the President’s house, and then headed up a very questionable dirt road toward Snake Lake, in the driver’s very non-4WD vehicle (more on that later).
The scenery was amazing. The colorful autumn trees were perfect photo opportunities with the rocky mountains in background.
Worth it.
Then we headed back toward Dushanbe.
This is when the day got really fun.
About 6 km before Anzob Pass, we hit a massive traffic jam. I never saw an accident, so I’m still not sure what caused it. There was a police officer at the bottom of the switchbacks who didn’t seem particularly interested in solving the problem.
Everyone else apparently decided to solve it themselves.
Cars were weaving in and out of traffic, passing on the left and right. My driver would fly up behind a slow-moving truck until we were about three feet from its bumper and then pull out to pass.
If that truck had hit its brakes—or even just taken its foot off the gas—we would have collided.
And apparently that’s just how people drive here. I wondered briefly, if it would make sense to be an life insurance agent in Tajikistan. You could make a fortune! If life insurance was a thing here…
Then we reached the “avalanche tunnels”.
These aren’t tunnels through the mountain. They’re covered sections of road built to protect vehicles from avalanches. Most also have a dirt “side road” running alongside them.
Naturally, my driver decided the dirt road was the better option- at 130km an hour!
A slow-moving truck ahead in the tunnel?
No problem.
He simply flew onto the dirt side road and bypassed the tunnel.
On a bumpy dirt road.
I thought I was going to die.
Repeatedly.
When we finally got back to Dushanbe, my driver casually commented that his car was making a strange noise (it was making a new noise- one that wasn’t there when we left Dushanbe).
I had several possible explanations… I kept them to myself.
By the time we got back to Dushanbe, I was completely exhausted. Too much adrenaline…
I ate at the Gastro Pub near my hotel because I had absolutely no energy left to walk anywhere.
Beautiful scenery. Great photographs. Fantastic day.
And possibly the most terrifying car ride I’ve ever paid for…
References:
Hotels– I did a combination of trips- one coming from Samarkand and the other from Dushanbe. The Seven Lakes Trip would be much more relaxed w/o border crossings. Perhaps staying in Penjekent and hiring a car privately (next time Ryan)?
Hotel Shumon- Excellent Location and Panoramic City Views
During my visit to Dushanbe, I stayed at Hotel Shumon and really enjoyed it! This comfortable, reasonably priced hotel has an excellent central location within walking distance of Rudaki Park, the National Museum of Tajikistan, and several of the city’s major landmarks. The breakfast was particularly good, but my favorite feature was the wonderful panoramic view from my room overlooking the city, parks, and surrounding mountains. The large windows make it an especially appealing choice for photographers who enjoy capturing cityscapes. If you’re looking for comfortable accommodations without spending a fortune, Hotel Shumon is an excellent option.
Best for: Independent travelers, photographers, and visitors seeking good value, a central location, and impressive city views.
Hyatt Regency Dushanbe- Five-Star Luxury Beside the Lake
For travelers seeking a more luxurious experience in Tajikistan’s capital, the five-star Hyatt Regency Dushanbe offers upscale accommodations overlooking Lake Javonon and the surrounding parkland. The modern glass-fronted hotel features spacious rooms and suites, elegant restaurants, an indoor swimming pool, and spa facilities. Its location near government buildings, landscaped parks, and major city attractions makes it convenient for sightseeing. With beautiful views of the city and distant mountains, the Hyatt Regency is an attractive choice for visitors looking to combine modern comfort with exploration of Dushanbe.
Best for: Luxury travelers, couples, business visitors, and travelers seeking upscale amenities and scenic views.
Hotel Safo Dushanbe- Modern Comfort and Rooftop Views
Safo Hotel is a contemporary four-star hotel offering comfortable accommodations near Dushanbe’s central attractions. Its distinctive illuminated entrance, elegant interiors, and modern guest rooms provide an appealing alternative to larger international hotels. One of its standout features is the SKY Lounge on the 13th floor, a panoramic restaurant offering elevated views across the city. The hotel also provides breakfast, Wi-Fi, and on-site dining. For visitors who enjoy photographing urban landscapes or relaxing above the city after a day of sightseeing, Safo Hotel is worth considering.
Best for: Couples, independent travelers, and visitors seeking modern accommodations with rooftop dining and city views.
Coffee
Finding coffee—especially good coffee—in Central Asia was considerably more difficult than I anticipated. Most coffee shops didn’t open until 8 a.m., which wasn’t particularly helpful for an early riser like me. About half the hotels I stayed in served instant coffee (which barely qualifies as coffee in my book). I never found bottled iced coffee in supermarkets, either—just endless selections of energy drinks.
There were a handful of 24-hour coffee shops, but I only managed to find one near my hotels. Naturally, it was inexplicably closed one morning when I needed it most.
If you’re someone who needs a decent cup of coffee to start the day, plan accordingly. You have been warned!
Tours
Find things to do in – day trips (museums and public transport), and more:
Travel Guides
Here is the recently published Lonely Planet Guide. This is what I used to plan the trip (in conjunction with the all-beloved internet):
Another travel guide available for :
Flights:
Buses are slow in Central Asia, and what looks like a short trip on a map can take much longer thanks to those inconveniently tall things called mountains between most destinations. For that reason, I flew whenever it made sense:
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Ryan Fox AWS, NWS, TWSA
Ryan Fox Painting