Kazakhstan Travel Photography: Canyons, Lakes & Mountains
Kolsai Lake and the Road to the Yurt Camp
I started early and went to the first pickup location at the Holiday Inn Express in Almaty because I wanted to get a window seat.
Glad I did. I managed a ton of really bad photographs (and a few decent ones) from inside a moving bus.
This was a big group tour—30-plus people with three hotel pickups—and we had several hours to drive before reaching our first stop, Moon Canyon. The scenery along the way was excellent, and I could easily have spent another hour photographing Moon Canyon.
Our second stop was Black Canyon, followed by lunch at a restaurant with communal tables and plenty of food. There was plov, soup and, as I would discover repeatedly in Kazakhstan, an astonishing amount of sugar accompanying the meal. Candies. Donuts. Really different.
Our final stop was Kolsai Lake. By the time we arrived, the sun was already starting to disappear behind the mountains. There was quite a bit of climbing to get to the viewpoints. The lake was pretty, although the late light meant I didn’t find it quite as spectacular as I was hoping. The downside to group tours is not controlling the schedule- I would have arrived two hours earlier.
From there we drove to the yurt camp.
Getting to the yurts involved hauling our luggage about 200 meters across a river in a tiny village. It was getting seriously cold, but there was a campfire and I hung around talking with people until they decided it was time to start playing games. I was not in the mood and too cold…
I was up at 4:30 the next morning- thinking of getting up for sunrise shots…
Nope. Bad to bed.
There were some genuinely nice people on the tour, but I’m still not a big fan tours. The scenery made up for a lot of it, though. The person I talked with most was an Iraqi doctor from Dallas who was traveling alone for two months. Her name was Ali, and she was having quite an adventure of her own. Central Asia is pretty safe (except for the driving). A woman can travel on her own here safely (with usual precautions).
Kaindy Lake and Charyn Canyon
It was a long, cold night in the yurt.
I was sharing with a guy from Abu Dhabi (living in Florida) who had made some interesting comments about immigrants the previous day, two Canadians, and a few other travelers. Apparently I also snored, because someone woke me up during the night to tell me.
I snore when I am exhausted (I was). I made an effort to roll over on my side. And, as usual, I had to get up for a bathroom break at 3am.
There are also some traditions associated with staying in a yurt. You’re supposed to enter with your right foot first and duck your head as a sign of respect to the family. Fortunately, a small heat vent near my bed kept me from freezing. It was only about 3°C (37°F) when we woke up. I slept in thermals, and two more layers.
Someone knocked on the side of the yurt around 6:30 a.m., breakfast was served in another yurt at 7:20, and we left around 8:30.
Our first destination was Kaindy Lake, famous for the partially submerged trees rising from its turquoise water.
We took horses part of the way up, which was an experience in itself. I have an irrational fear of horses. I don’t want to be the first guy devoured by a horse! Going down a steep embankment near the end was slightly terrifying. I wanted to make it all the way to the far end of the lake but decided I probably didn’t have enough time to go down and get back to the bus.
Lunch was at the same restaurant as the previous day, this time with plov made with horse meat. There was a ridiculous amount of sugar accompanying the meal.
Meals on these tours are generally served family-style, with everyone sharing dishes around a communal table. It was a good way to meet people, even if I wasn’t always sure what I was eating.
We reached Charyn Canyon around 2:30 p.m. and had several hours to explore.
I chose to stay on the upper trails rather than hike down into the canyon. The light was fantastic, and from the rim I could see all the way toward the end of the canyon.
I took a s#$t ton of photographs.
I never actually made it down into the canyon, but I got far enough along the rim to photograph some incredible views with the late-afternoon light.
Eventually it was time to leave. I had expected to take the 1,000-tenge bus back to the parking area—the posted rate for the canyon interior—but the bus waiting at the top wanted 20,000 tenge.
No way.
I walked back instead.
Then came another three-hour drive to Almaty.
My Expedia hotel reservation had been changed yet again, so I was dropped at a different hotel that was supposedly more convenient for my new apartment at the southern end of the city.
The apartment was another story.
That freaking door! It made no sense.
It was a nightmare to get into.
Eventually I made it inside and headed to an Italian restaurant in the nearby mall, where I happened to see a couple of the Irish women from the tour.
I ordered carbonara.
They put cream in it.
Not right.
References:
Hotels
Our tour was based out of Almaty:
Holiday Inn Express Almaty- Comfortable Accommodations and Excellent City Views
Holiday Inn Express Almaty offers comfortable, modern accommodations at a generally more accessible price point than the city’s luxury hotels. Located near Almaty’s Central Stadium, the hotel provides convenient access to restaurants, public transportation, and attractions. Guests can enjoy contemporary rooms, complimentary breakfast, Wi-Fi, and a lounge area.
During my visit to Almaty, I stopped at the Holiday Inn Express to photograph the city from its lounge. I found fantastic views of Almaty’s urban landscape and the surrounding mountains, making it another worthwhile stop during my search for elevated photography locations. For travelers interested in practical accommodations with reliable amenities, Holiday Inn Express is an appealing alternative to Almaty’s more expensive hotels.
Best for: Independent travelers, budget-conscious visitors, and photographers seeking comfortable accommodations and city views.
(Almaty skyline from Holiday Inn Express rooftop)
Rixos Almaty- Elegant Five-Star Accommodations in Central Almaty
The five-star Rixos Almaty offers luxurious accommodations in a convenient central location near some of the city’s shopping streets, parks, restaurants, and cultural attractions. Its grand architecture, elegant guest rooms, and extensive wellness facilities provide an attractive retreat after a busy day exploring Kazakhstan’s largest city.
The hotel features a swimming pool, spa facilities, dining options, and spacious accommodations. Its central location is particularly appealing for travelers who want to spend time exploring Almaty’s surprisingly European atmosphere, tree-lined streets, and lively café culture. For those looking for an upscale hotel without staying in a modern skyscraper, Rixos Almaty is worth considering.
Best for: Luxury travelers, couples, business visitors, and tourists who prefer elegant accommodations in the city center.
Hotel Kazakhstan- Iconic Soviet Architecture and Incredible Skyline Views
Hotel Kazakhstan is one of Almaty’s most recognizable landmarks, famous for its distinctive Soviet-era architecture and towering facade. Located near the eastern end of the city’s central district, the hotel offers convenient access to restaurants, parks, and popular attractions. Although the accommodations are more traditional than those of Almaty’s newer luxury properties, its architectural history and central location make it an interesting option for travelers.
I visited Hotel Kazakhstan specifically to photograph Almaty from above and found some fantastic views from its upper-floor bar and restaurant. The BarFly restaurant on the 26th floor offers panoramic views across the city and toward the magnificent Trans-Ili Alatau Mountains. For photographers hoping to capture Almaty’s combination of modern buildings and dramatic mountain scenery, this is a viewpoint worth investigating, even if you’re staying elsewhere. Totally worth the inflated prices.
Best for: Architecture enthusiasts, independent travelers, photographers, and visitors seeking a recognizable city landmark with panoramic views.
(Almaty skyline and mountains as viewed from Hotel Kazahkstan)
The Ritz Carlton Almaty- Five-Star Luxury with Spectacular Mountain Views
For travelers seeking luxury accommodations in Almaty, the five-star Ritz-Carlton offers spectacular panoramic views of the city and the snow-capped Trans-Ili Alatau Mountains. Located in the upper floors of the modern Esentai Tower, this upscale hotel features elegant rooms, fine dining, an indoor swimming pool, and spa facilities. Its floor-to-ceiling windows make it particularly appealing to visitors who appreciate dramatic cityscapes and mountain scenery.
During my visit to Almaty, I tried to find a photography vantage point from the Ritz-Carlton, even slipping into the hotel alongside other guests! Unfortunately, I never managed to find the viewpoint I was looking for. The hotel does have several impressive high-floor dining venues, including the Sky Bar and Lounge and Vista Restaurant on the 30th floor. Next time, I’ll try the more conventional approach and make a reservation.
Best for: Luxury travelers, couples, and photographers seeking upscale accommodations with mountain and skyline views.
Coffee
Finding coffee—especially good coffee—in Central Asia was considerably more difficult than I anticipated. Most coffee shops didn’t open until 8 a.m., which wasn’t particularly helpful for an early riser like me. About half the hotels I stayed in served instant coffee (which barely qualifies as coffee in my book). I never found bottled iced coffee in supermarkets, either—just endless selections of energy drinks.
There were a handful of 24-hour coffee shops, but I only managed to find one near my hotels. Naturally, it was inexplicably closed one morning when I needed it most.
If you’re someone who needs a decent cup of coffee to start the day, plan accordingly. You have been warned!
Tours
Find things to do in – day trips (museums and public transport), and more:
Travel Guides
Here is the recently published Lonely Planet Guide. This is what I used to plan the trip (in conjunction with the all-beloved internet):
Another travel guide available for :
Flights:
Buses are slow in Central Asia, and what looks like a short trip on a map can take much longer thanks to those inconveniently tall things called mountains between most destinations. For that reason, I flew whenever it made sense:
Disclaimer: This page contains affiliate links. If you choose to make a purchase after clicking a link, I may receive a commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you for your support!
Ryan Fox AWS, NWS, TWSA
Ryan Fox Painting