Samarkand Travel Experiences: Registan, Shah-i-Zinda & More
Samarkand was one of the places I had been looking forward to most on my Central Asia trip. The city’s history, Islamic architecture, blue tilework, and legendary Silk Road reputation make it almost impossible to visit without carrying a camera.
I spent several days exploring Samarkand, photographing the major monuments, wandering the streets, making a quick trip into Tajikistan, and occasionally making poor decisions that my punk rock bands would approve of.
Samarkand is bigger than Khiva and Bukhara. You can walk from one end of Khiva’s Ichon-Qala in about 15 minutes, and most of Bukhara’s major sites are within roughly a 20-minute radius. Samarkand’s sights are more spread out. It’s still walkable, but taxis are cheap, and I’ve learned that spending a few dollars is worth having some energy left in the tank.
Day 1: Registan Square, Amir Temur Mausoleum & Shah-i-Zinda
My first day in Samarkand started early.
4:00 a.m. early.
I had a 5:25 train from Tashkent, and the station was already crowded when I arrived. I even ran into a German woman I’d met a few days earlier.
The train ride took about two hours. Train station is about 20 minute from city. All the taxi drivers offer “good price”. Yeah right. I ordered a Yandex car for a “good price”. When I arrived in Samarkand, my hotel was down a ridiculously narrow alley. My driver had a hell of a time backing out after dropping me off. I spent the rest of the trip saving taxi drivers from the nightmare alley and having them drop me at the corner instead.
I arrived around 8 a.m., but check-in wasn’t until 2 p.m. So I dropped my bags and headed straight for Registan Square.
The lighting was excellent, and I spent a long time photographing the three enormous madrasas. This was one of those places where I could have spent hours just watching how the light changed across the architecture. Unfortunately, you have to purchase a ticket and it is only good for one use.
From Registan I walked toward the Amir Temur Mausoleum, stopping at a coffee shop along the way. I ordered a “Bumble” — coffee with a splash of orange juice that sinks to the bottom. Apparently another popular Uzbekistan alternative is cranberry juice at the bottom. I look forward to trying both of these ideas when I return to the States.
I ended up talking with two Kiwis outside and then spent some time talking with the shop owner. The power was out, so credit cards weren’t working. This turned out to be a useful preview of what was coming.
The shop owner wanted to move to the United States. He mentioned Mississippi and New York.
Not to offend Mississippi, but I tried to explain that he might want to consider a few other parts of the country.
I continued to the mausoleum and spent some time photographing and exploring it before exhaustion finally caught up with me. I grabbed a taxi back to the hotel and collapsed for a while.
Later that afternoon I headed back out to Bibi-Khanym Mosque and the Shah-i-Zinda Necropolis.
Shah-i-Zinda was spectacular.
It was also packed.
The blue tilework and narrow passageways were incredible, but there were so many people that getting clean photographs was a challenge.
I eventually made my way to Hazrat Khizr Mosque, which Google claimed was open 24/7.
That would become important later.
I finished the day with sunset at Registan Square, using the free viewing area. The light was excellent, and the square looked completely different from the morning.
Then I ate a roughly $2 shawarma and headed back to the hotel.
I was also running out of money.
And that’s when I discovered my bank card wasn’t working.
Excellent timing.
Oh, and the hotel didn’t have any power when I returned either. Not a huge deal — I don’t watch TV at all when I travel — but I did need to recharge my phone and power banks.
Power was eventually restored.
Day 2: Seven Lakes of Tajikistan
By the next day, I was starting to feel a little citied out.
I hate group tours.
Like, really hate them. I like the self-autonomy when I travel solo- especially as a photographer who takes to many pictures…
But I needed some nature, so I signed up for a group tour to the Seven Lakes of Tajikistan. More information is in my Tajikistan Excursions post.
The group met early in front of the Amir Temur Mausoleum. I’d already photographed sunrise over Registan Square before walking over.
I’d also finally found a coffee shop near my hotel that was actually open 24/7.
Two coffees.
This would become relevant.
We headed into Tajikistan, and the trip turned into a full day of mountain scenery, winding roads, short stops, and a surprisingly diverse group of travelers. The Seven Lakes were beautiful, and I spent most of the day trying to squeeze as much photography as possible into the short stops.
I also noticed that drivers in Central Asia seem to enjoy streaming YouTube while driving. Usually accompanied by some truly terrible synth-heavy music.
Not good.
Back in Samarkand, I ate at an overpriced restaurant because my ATM card still wasn’t working and I was running low on cash.
There was also a parrot behind me that periodically started squawking.
Because apparently the day wasn’t weird enough.
I was getting increasingly pissed at my bank because the fraud department was closed for the weekend.
Apparently fraud takes weekends off.
I couldn’t get the card working and couldn’t log in to the account either. I knew I had money in my account — I just couldn’t access it.
Dushanbe was the only part of my trip I hadn’t completely figured out yet, and I was supposed to be heading there in several days.
This was becoming a problem.
Day 3: Sunrise at Hazrat Khizr & Bibi-Khanym
I wanted better photographs of Hazrat Khizr Mosque and Bibi-Khanym Mosque, so I got up at 4:30 a.m.
Google Maps said Hazrat Khizr was open 24/7.
It wasn’t.
There were metal gates in front of the stair entrances.
Technically, the gates were movable.
I saw someone else move one and walk inside. He looked like a local, though.
But I thought if the locals could do it…
So, naturally, I decided this was permission.
I moved the gate and went in.
I got some excellent sunrise photographs while overlooking Samarkand. Unfortunately, I also realized that several other tourists had followed me inside after seeing the gate propped open. Two of them were loud Chinese tourists, and I immediately figured the tourist police wouldn’t be far behind.
That was my mistake.
I should have closed the gate.
So I hid.
Well, “hid” is probably generous.
I stood in a corner of the building and tried to look like I belonged there.
It worked for a surprisingly long time.
Eventually I heard a whistle.
I kept walking slowly as if I didn’t hear it.
I heard another whistle.
Yep. It was for me.
The tourist police officer eventually caught up with me and told me to leave. I played stupid but did as instructed.
So I left.
I kept thinking about one of those memes that says something along the lines of:
“I kept praying God would give me a bicycle. He didn’t. So I stole a bicycle and prayed for forgiveness.”
Same basic principle.
I spent the rest of the day photographing Samarkand and returned to the area around the mausoleum later that evening.
It was rainy, but the weather actually worked in my favor. The crowds had disappeared, and I was able to photograph the monuments without fighting through a sea of tourists.
I took a taxi back to my hotel after crossing the busy road near the mausoleum. The taxi driver completely navigated the narrow alleys the entire way. I was impressed.
I guess he picked me up in a weird area.
In my defense, I didn’t know where to go.
Samarkand Was Worth the Trip
Samarkand delivered exactly what I’d hoped for: spectacular architecture, incredible tilework, historic monuments, and an almost endless supply of photographic opportunities.
But the best part wasn’t simply seeing the famous places.
It was wandering between them, talking with locals, dealing with power outages and malfunctioning bank cards, accidentally wandering into places I probably shouldn’t have entered, and discovering how different the city feels at sunrise and after dark.
That’s what I remember.
The photographs are just the evidence.
References:
Hotels
Mosaic Boutique- Mosaic Boutique Hotel is an excellent choice for travelers who appreciate traditional architecture and smaller, more intimate accommodations. Located on Bukhara Street, just a short walk from the magnificent Registan Square, the hotel combines decorative Uzbek architectural details with comfortable modern rooms.
The hotel’s beautiful interior courtyard, ornate carved archways, and traditional design elements make it particularly appealing to photographers and travelers interested in Central Asian architecture. Rooms feature air conditioning, private bathrooms, and Wi-Fi, while breakfast and a convenient central location add to its appeal.
For independent travelers planning to explore Samarkand on foot, Mosaic Boutique offers an attractive alternative to larger international hotels. Its proximity to Registan Square is especially convenient for photographers hoping to capture the famous madrasahs in the early morning or after sunset. booking.com+1
Best for: Architecture lovers, photographers, couples, and independent travelers who prefer boutique accommodations.
Movenpick Samarkand- For travelers seeking a more luxurious experience in Samarkand, the five-star Mövenpick Samarkand offers a combination of international hotel amenities and a convenient central location. Situated near University Boulevard and approximately a 15-minute walk from Registan Square, the hotel provides easy access to many of the city’s most important attractions.
Guests can enjoy contemporary accommodations, on-site restaurants serving local and international cuisine, fitness facilities, and indoor and seasonal outdoor swimming pools. Spa facilities offer a welcome opportunity to relax after a long day exploring Samarkand’s historic monuments.
The location is particularly appealing for visitors interested in exploring the Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum, Registan Square, and the surrounding historic district without relying heavily on taxis. Mövenpick is a strong choice for travelers willing to spend more for additional comfort and amenities while discovering Uzbekistan’s Silk Road heritage. AccorHotels – ALL+2
Best for: Luxury travelers, couples, families, and visitors wanting upscale facilities near Samarkand’s major attractions.
Shohojand Palace- Shohjahon Palace offers another appealing accommodation option for visitors exploring historic Samarkand. Combining decorative architectural elements with modern amenities, the hotel provides a comfortable base for discovering the city’s extraordinary Silk Road landmarks.
One of the property’s notable features is its rooftop terrace, offering elevated views across Samarkand. For travelers who enjoy photographing cityscapes, architecture, and the atmosphere of historic destinations, this provides an additional reason to consider staying here.
The hotel also features a restaurant, swimming pool, Turkish bath, and spa facilities, making it suitable for visitors who want to combine sightseeing with relaxation. Its location near Registan Square makes it a convenient choice for exploring the historic city. Official Site
Best for: Couples, photography enthusiasts, and travelers seeking a hotel with spa amenities and city views.
Coffee
Finding coffee—especially good coffee—in Central Asia was considerably more difficult than I anticipated. Most coffee shops didn’t open until 8 a.m., which wasn’t particularly helpful for an early riser like me. About half the hotels I stayed in served instant coffee (which barely qualifies as coffee in my book). I never found bottled iced coffee in supermarkets, either—just endless selections of energy drinks.
There were a handful of 24-hour coffee shops, but I only managed to find one near my hotels. Naturally, it was inexplicably closed one morning when I needed it most.
If you’re someone who needs a decent cup of coffee to start the day, plan accordingly. You have been warned!
Tours
Find things to do in – day trips (museums and public transport), and more:
Travel Guides
Here is the recently published Lonely Planet Guide. This is what I used to plan the trip (in conjunction with the all-beloved internet):
Another travel guide available for :
Flights:
Buses are slow in Central Asia, and what looks like a short trip on a map can take much longer thanks to those inconveniently tall things called mountains between most destinations. For that reason, I flew whenever it made sense:
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Ryan Fox Painting