Bukhara Travel Experiences: Old Town, Mosques & Silk Road Architecture
Bukhara was one of the places I was most interested in seeing during my Central Asia trip. The historic center is packed with mosques, madrasas, markets, monuments, and narrow streets that make you want to wander around with a camera all day.
I arrived by sleeper train from Samarkand (departing at 3 p.m. with a 9 p.m. arrival), which turned out to be a pretty good way to travel between the cities. The high-speed train was sold out six weeks in advance. You have to be on the clock when those tickets go on sale. Don’t say you haven’t been warned!
Arriving in Bukhara
There were plenty of people on the sleeper train. A couple of European women initially sat next to my aisle seat before realizing they were in the wrong car. They had to move when more passengers arrived at the first stop.
The seats folded down, which gave me enough room to stretch out a little. A food vendor came through selling beer.
Obviously, I had a couple.
The train took about six hours to reach Bukhara, followed by the usual arrival routine: taxi drivers offering me a “good price.”
I did find a “good price”!
From a Yandex driver. Who was one of the taxi drivers offering a good price a few minutes before.
Hilarious.
I made the roughly 20-minute trip into the city.
When I arrived at my hotel, I was told there was a “plumbing problem” with my room and that they were moving me to another hotel nearby.
Bullshit.
They had overbooked.
The replacement hotel wasn’t as nice, but it had a much better view and an excellent location in the old city. I didn’t know any of this when they moved me, of course. I was simply following two guys through dimly lit alleys at night, wondering if this was the point where I was about to get robbed.
Fortunately, it wasn’t.
I also didn’t pay the extra “fee” they initially said I owed.
The replacement hotel had a nice buffet breakfast downstairs, and between the location and the view, it actually worked out pretty well. Actually, the view was totally worth it. Hotel information is below.
Day 1: Exploring Bukhara
I hate arriving in a new city at night. I have no idea where I am, which direction I’m facing, or what anything looks like.
So the next morning I got up early and started exploring.
I spent the morning wandering around the old city and photographing the area around Registan Square.
I eventually found a coffee shop overlooking the square. There was a ticket to enter, and I figured the view had to be worth it.
The second floor had only four tables with window views.
They were all occupied.
But there was a third floor.
After asking the barista to unlock the door, I discovered an even better viewpoint.
Screw the coffee.
I had found my photography spot.
The ticket was good for two entrances, so I came back later that evening and used it again.
After breakfast and some time back at the hotel, I headed over to Bolo Hauz Mosque. I knew immediately that I needed to return in the morning for better light.
From there I made my way to the Ismail Samani Mausoleum. The interior was beautiful, and the architecture was completely different from the elaborate blue tilework I had been photographing elsewhere in Uzbekistan.
I skipped the Ark of Bukhara that day. There was plenty of time.
Eventually I made my way to Bukhara Central Market, where I had some excellent plov.
And it was cheap.
Really cheap.
The hardest part was actually finding the place. Maybe the best plov I ate on the entire trip.
That evening I ate Turkish pide at a restaurant in the old city. A guy was playing guitar outside. He was actually pretty good, so I gave him a small tip.
Day 2: Bolo Hauz, the Ark & Sunset
I returned to Bolo Hauz Mosque early the next morning for sunrise photographs.
Much better.
The morning light transformed the area, and this was one of those places where getting up early was absolutely worth it.
I spent more time photographing the area around Registan Square and then worked my way over to the exterior of the Ark of Bukhara for sunset, with multiple stops along the way.
The Ark is massive and imposing, and it looks completely different depending on the light.
The light was excellent, and from the Ark I could photograph the surrounding monuments against the evening sky.
This was exactly why I had come to Bukhara.
The city has an incredible concentration of historic architecture, but what really made it work for me as a photographer was the changing light. The same buildings could look completely different in the morning, afternoon, and evening.
And, thankfully, I didn’t have to worry about finding a taxi through a dark alley that night.
References:
Hotels
Hotel Poyi Kalon Terrace- This is where I stayed during my visit to Bukhara. Hotel Poyi Kalon Terrace is a relatively simple, affordable hotel, but its location is difficult to beat. Situated just steps from the magnificent Kalyan Minaret and Po-i-Kalyan architectural complex, the hotel features a rooftop terrace with outstanding views of some of Bukhara’s most iconic landmarks. For photographers, the opportunity to enjoy these historic buildings from above is a major selling point. If you’re more interested in location and atmosphere than luxury amenities, this hotel is well worth considering.
(actual rooftop view from hotel- highly recommended!)
Minorai Kalon Hotel- Minorai Kalon Boutique Hotel combines traditional Uzbek hospitality with an exceptional location in Bukhara’s historic center. Its standout feature is a terrace restaurant, providing an atmospheric setting for enjoying the city’s beautiful architecture. Comfortable rooms with modern conveniences make this an appealing choice for travelers interested in photography, architecture, and the history of the Silk Road.
Shahriston Hotel- Located in the heart of Bukhara’s historic Old Town, Shahriston Hotel offers comfortable accommodations within easy walking distance of the famous Kalyan Minaret, ancient madrasahs, and Lyab-i Hauz Square. The hotel features traditionally inspired interiors, modern amenities, a Turkish hammam, and a rooftop breakfast area overlooking the historic city. An excellent choice for travelers who want to explore Bukhara’s magnificent Silk Road architecture on foot.
Coffee
Finding coffee—especially good coffee—in Central Asia was considerably more difficult than I anticipated. Most coffee shops didn’t open until 8 a.m., which wasn’t particularly helpful for an early riser like me. About half the hotels I stayed in served instant coffee (which barely qualifies as coffee in my book). I never found bottled iced coffee in supermarkets, either—just endless selections of energy drinks.
There were a handful of 24-hour coffee shops, but I only managed to find one near my hotels. Naturally, it was inexplicably closed one morning when I needed it most.
If you’re someone who needs a decent cup of coffee to start the day, plan accordingly. You have been warned!
Tours
Find things to do in – day trips (museums and public transport), and more:
Travel Guides
Here is the recently published Lonely Planet Guide. This is what I used to plan the trip (in conjunction with the all-beloved internet):
Another travel guide available for :
Flights:
Buses are slow in Central Asia, and what looks like a short trip on a map can take much longer thanks to those inconveniently tall things called mountains between most destinations. For that reason, I flew whenever it made sense:
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Ryan Fox Painting