Khiva- Uzbekistan
Day 1 — Tashkent to Khiva
Checked out of the hotel. The taxi driver was hilarious. After I told him I was American, he called two separate people from his cellphone so they could speak English with me. I have no idea who I was actually talking to!
So weird. There really aren’t that many Americans in Uzbekistan!
My plans to use the Priority Pass lounge were quickly dashed because the national terminal had exactly one tiny shop — called “Tiny Shop.” Apparently, lounge access isn’t quite a thing everywhere in Uzbekistan.
The flight to Khiva was only about an hour, with amazing desert scenery along the way.
Then came a 35-minute taxi ride into the city. My driver apparently believed in maintaining a very close relationship with the vehicle in front of him.
Tailgating big time.
I was dropped off at my hotel inside the old city walls, which was amazing. It was actually inside an old madrassa, and the whole place was incredibly unique. Low ceilings, though. Be careful- watch your head. Hotel information is below.
I immediately headed out for about three hours of sunset photography.
Khiva is gorgeous, by the way. Absolutely gorgeous.
When I returned to the hotel, I asked the woman at the desk if they had any beer. I wanted to have a drink in the madrasa courtyard after a long day of shooting photographs.
They didn’t have any beer.
But she took my wallet, pulled out some cash, and sent her12-year-old son who worked there out to buy me beer.
Five minutes later he came back with a beer and my change.
I couldn’t believe it.
I would never have survived as a child in this place. Give me loose liquor laws and that much freedom when I was 12 and I would have been a menace.
How hilarious.
Day 2 — Khiva, 9/27
Woke up at 5:00 a.m.
More morning photography. Simple breakfast at the hotel at 8 a.m.
I exchanged money outside the city walls and then ate at an outdoor restaurant I’d noticed the day before, just a little north of the city. The menu wasn’t in English, but I managed.
Good dumplings.
I had booked a desert fortress tour for 2 p.m. My driver, Miguel, picked me up and took me out to the fortresses.
The first fortress was the most ruined of the three. I actually enjoyed it more than I expected, and I think I got better photographs there than some of the ones I’ve seen online.
The second fortress was beautiful too, especially from the outside.
I tried walking around it and got stuck.
Literally.
I ended up shoulder-deep in prickly bushes and had to backtrack to find another path.
We went to a lake for dinner later. This was probably my only real regret of the day. I think I had dumplings again. They were fine, but I was worried about losing the light.
We arrived at the last fortress just in the nick of time.
The photographs from the road were amazing, with pink and purple light hitting the landscape. I had to run about 20 minutes from the parking lot to the top of the rock overlooking the fortress.
The light was perfect.
I wish I’d gotten there 30 minutes earlier.
Still, it was a pretty damn cool experience.
We arrived back in Khiva late and took the expressway from Khiva to Urgench. There were almost no cars on the road, and the payment system was rather confusing.
The driver got out both times and ran up to a counter. The first time, there were some other drivers standing at the counter. He mentioned something about his brother a few minutes later.
I was confused.
How do they not take credit cards?
Do they take credit cards? Who was the brother? What actually happened?
I have no idea.
Day 3 — Khiva, 9/28
Last full day in Khiva.
I spent another morning walking around taking photographs. The city is really compact, which makes it easy to explore on foot.
I had an overpriced coffee at an expensive restaurant overlooking the main square once it opened. Unfortunately, I had already been awake for three hours.
I wanted to sneak into the Royal Palace with an English-speaking tour group. My city pass was good for 48 hours, and I wasn’t about to buy another one.
I was also willing to try it with a German or Spanish group since I can speak those languages well enough to fool an Uzbek!
I never found a group, but I thought it was a pretty good plan.
I walked from the city to a restaurant near the train station. The first place I checked had guys dressed extremely well.
A little too fancy for me.
I found another place next door with no air conditioning.
I think I had manti again.
Everyone there washed their hands before eating. The guy taking the money sat behind the counter and looked like an Uzbek mob boss, taking money from restaurant patrons as they left and surrounded by stacks of bills.
I liked him immediately.
Then I made my way over to the train station, where they had one little shop open.
Which, at this point, was basically all I needed.
A Few Khiva Recommendations
The walled city of Itchan Kala is free to enter. If you enter from the West Gate, they may ask for your ticket. Just tell them you are visiting. No ticket needed.
The Itchan Kala ticket you purchase includes entrance to most of the city’s sites and is good for 48 hours.
However, the ticket does not include entrance to the Islam Khoja Minaret (which I didn’t climb), the city walls (totally worth it), the Ark of Khiva (not to be missed for sunset), or the Pahlavan Mahmoud Mausoleum.
References:
Hotels
Muso To’ra Hotel– Sleep in a Historic Madrasa in Old Khiva
During my visit to Khiva, I stayed at Muso To’ra Hotel, and I loved it! Located inside the ancient walls of Itchan Kala, this unique hotel occupies a beautifully restored 19th-century madrasa, once used as an Islamic school. The former student rooms have been converted into guest accommodations surrounding a traditional courtyard. The rooms retain much of their historic character, including low doorways, so watch your head! The location is practically perfect, with Khiva’s magnificent minarets, mosques, and historic landmarks just a short walk away. For travelers who appreciate history, architecture, and unusual accommodations, staying in a converted madrasa is an experience in itself.
Best for: History lovers, photographers, budget-conscious travelers, and anyone seeking an authentic architectural experience.
Mercure Khiva Hotel– Modern Luxury Near the Ancient City Walls
For travelers seeking additional comfort and upscale amenities, the four-star Mercure Khiva offers a modern alternative near the historic walled city of Itchan Kala. Inspired by Uzbekistan’s Silk Road heritage, the hotel combines traditional architectural elements with contemporary accommodations. Highlights include an indoor swimming pool, hammam, spa, restaurants, and a rooftop terrace with views toward Khiva’s historic skyline. Its location provides convenient access to the city’s famous attractions, including Kalta Minor Minaret and the Juma Mosque. An appealing choice for visitors who prefer modern facilities after a long day exploring the ancient city.
Best for: Luxury travelers, couples, and visitors who appreciate swimming pools, spa facilities, and modern comforts.
Anor Qal’a Hotel- Traditional Uzbek Charm and Rooftop Views
Anor Qal’a Hotel offers comfortable accommodations just a short walk from the historic walls of Itchan Kala. The hotel’s traditional wooden architecture, carved columns, and spacious rooftop terrace reflect the distinctive craftsmanship of Uzbekistan’s Khorezm region. Its rooftop provides an attractive place to relax while enjoying views toward Khiva’s ancient minarets and historic skyline. With 29 guest rooms, breakfast service, and assistance arranging transportation and local excursions, Anor Qal’a is a practical choice for independent travelers exploring Khiva.
Best for: Couples, independent travelers, architecture enthusiasts, and photographers interested in rooftop views of historic Khiva.
Coffee
Finding coffee—especially good coffee—in Central Asia was considerably more difficult than I anticipated. Most coffee shops didn’t open until 8 a.m., which wasn’t particularly helpful for an early riser like me. About half the hotels I stayed in served instant coffee (which barely qualifies as coffee in my book). I never found bottled iced coffee in supermarkets, either—just endless selections of energy drinks.
There were a handful of 24-hour coffee shops, but I only managed to find one near my hotels. Naturally, it was inexplicably closed one morning when I needed it most.
If you’re someone who needs a decent cup of coffee to start the day, plan accordingly. You have been warned!
Tours
Find things to do in – day trips (museums and public transport), and more:
Travel Guides
Here is the recently published Lonely Planet Guide. This is what I used to plan the trip (in conjunction with the all-beloved internet):
Another travel guide available for :
Flights:
Buses are slow in Central Asia, and what looks like a short trip on a map can take much longer thanks to those inconveniently tall things called mountains between most destinations. For that reason, I flew whenever it made sense:
Disclaimer: This page contains affiliate links. If you choose to make a purchase after clicking a link, I may receive a commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you for your support!
Ryan Fox AWS, NWS, TWSA
Ryan Fox Painting