Three Days in Tashkent: Beginning and End of My Central Asia Trip
Tashkent was both the beginning and the end of my 27-day trip through Central Asia.
I flew into Tashkent, traveled through Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan, and eventually returned to Tashkent before heading home.
That gave me a chance to see the city twice — once when I was fresh off the plane (and completely exhausted), and again after 26 days of travel (where I was also completely exhausted)
The first visit involved accidentally destroying part of a national monument. I couldn’t make that up (if I tried). No joke.
Arriving in Tashkent
The trip started with an early-morning flight from Raleigh-Durham to JFK.
I had a nice long layover, which meant I finally got to experience the Capital One airport lounge.
Super bougie.
Free food. Free drinks. Comfortable chairs.
This is apparently how the other half lives.
The flight to Tashkent was surprisingly empty. I ended up on the right side of the plane with three empty seats next to me. I tried to stretch out and get some sleep.
Easier said than done. I can’t sleep on planes for more than 20 minutes. Period.
It was a really long flight.
After landing in Tashkent, I had the usual problem of trying to get my phone working. Eventually I found the right combination of settings and got Yandex working well enough to get a taxi to the hotel. Yandex is the Central Asian version of Uber- super cheap and you don’t need cash on-hand. Really convenient.
Airports are often chaos when you arrive, with aggressive taxi drivers trying to convince you that they have the best possible price.
Tashkent was surprisingly easy.
The Yandex car pulled right up to the airport and dropped me at my hotel.
Then I discovered the hotel didn’t have my Expedia reservation.
I spent about an hour trying to sort it out before finally saying, “Screw it. I’ll just pay for the room.”
It was already 11 a.m., and I wanted to get outside and start photographing.
I left my stuff at the hotel and took a taxi toward the Chorsu Bazaar.
I was starving, so I stopped at the first fast-food place I found. Not exactly the first meal I’d imagined for the beginning of a 27-day trip.
I moved on to a madrassa and spent some time photographing the architecture before wandering through Chorsu Bazaar and exploring some of the surrounding neighborhoods.
Eventually I made my way toward the Hazrati Imam Complex.
By this point I was exhausted. I had barely slept in 40+ hours (I cannot sleep the night before big trips and only managed a few power naps on airplane to Uzbekistan).
I found some grass and laid down for about an hour.
Sometimes the best thing to photograph is absolutely nothing.
After resting, I photographed the complex and then headed toward the Islamic Civilization Center.
The light was getting beautiful, and I was chasing sunset- the beautiful purple light you get 30-40 minutes after the sun goes down.
I made my way toward the front of the complex and cut through some bushes toward what looked like an empty plaza with a sculpture.
I started taking photographs.
Then I fell through the floor/ground.
I had somehow walked onto an empty water fountain. The surface appeared to be made from some combination of tiles and glass, and I managed to break at least six of them.
Oops. I had no idea I was standing on an empty water fountain. I found out (later) that the other three sides were roped off.
I carefully worked my way out along the sides of the remaining tiles and descended from the ruined monument. I didn’t know what to do. I was hungry, sleep deprived, and in a foreign country where I spoke maybe 10 phrases. So I did the thing that anyone in that situation should do- I fled!
I caught the first Yandex I could get.
I felt terrible about it.
I was also worried because I’d been around the complex for hours and knew there had to be cameras everywhere.
I was starving, though, so I checked into the hotel and went to the first restaurant I could find near the Seoul Moon Mall.
Turkish food.
I had meat pide.
After eating I felt a little bit better. I could (almost) think clearly. I decided I should probably do the responsible thing and report my accidental destruction of a national monument.
So I called the tourist police.
A guy came to my hotel room and interviewed me. I told him I’d return the next day and pay for the damage. He spoke some English, but not enough to fully grasp what I was telling him. Thank you Google Translate- it helped (a little).
First day abroad and I’d already unintentionally defiled a national monument.
Great start.
Hazrati Imam Complex in Tashkent, Uzbekistan, photographed in purple sunset light
Day 2: The Scene of the Crime
I started early at Minor Mosque. Wake up time 4:30am.
It was pretty, but as I photographed it I realized something:
Pretty doesn’t necessarily mean sellable.
I had my first real meal at a nearby samosa place. I didn’t know how to say beef or lamb so held up one finger and said “moo” and another finger and said “bah”! It worked- I received something. No coffee, but I drank an entire pot of sweet tea.
Back to the hotel briefly, then back to the scene of the crime.
I talked with several people while they discussed the situation amongst themselves (in Russian) . I understood nothing. They must have thought I was nuts. Eventually a tourist police officer walked me toward the south side of the complex.
I assumed we were going to the tourist police station to pay for the damages.
Then he told me they weren’t going to charge me.
He said thanks for being honest.
He let me go.
I couldn’t believe it.
I was probably the strangest person they had dealt with all week.
Checked out of the hotel. The Yandex driver was hilarious. After I told him I was American, he called two separate people from his cellphone so they could speak English with me. I have no idea who I was actually talking to! I flew out of the smaller national terminal to Khiva afterwards, happy that I wasn’t going to be arrested at the airport for vandalism…
Back to Tashkent
I arrived in Tashkent after sunset on my return- returing from Bishkek via flight to avoid a grueling bus-ride.
There was an American on the flight named Joe from Chicago. He spoke Russian extremely well, and we started talking.
He was staying at Hotel Uzbekistan too, so I offered him a free ride.
We ended up sharing a taxi after landing.
And, amazingly, I finally got my phone working properly.
After 25 days of traveling through Central Asia, I was back in Tashkent.
I woke up at 4:30 a.m. and headed to the Victims Monument for sunrise.
The lights shut off around 6 a.m., but I got a really nice sunrise over the mountains with the TV tower in the background.
I Yandexed back toward the monument and then walked along the pedestrian street toward the Amir Temur statue near my hotel.
I returned to Hotel Uzbekistan for breakfast in what appeared to be a ballroom.
Huge tables.
Tons of food.
No eggs.
What?
I had meatballs, fruit, and a lot of cappuccino from the machine.
These cultures are not exactly coffee cultures.
I relaxed for a while and then headed back out.
I returned to the scene of the crime- the Islamic Civilization Center.
The broken tiles at the Islamic Civilization Center had been repaired.
There was also a new broken section along the edge.
Someone else must have done exactly what I did- cut through the bushes in the parking lot.
And there was still no rope.
I thought the groundskeepers had learned their lesson…
I walked down the tourist street looking for a way up and eventually went to Chorsu Bazaar, where I bought a knife for Stacy. I had translated “My girlfriend wants a knife so that she can stab me with it” into the phone, and I showed this to the vendor’s while shopping. Everyone laughed. I don’t worry about shopping overseas- I know I am going to pay more than the locals. I would rather have a good experience than haggle for a few bucks and get upset. Life is too short…
I also tried to find some football jerseys.
No luck.
I took a Yandex to Qesh Bezon for a late lunch around 3 p.m.
I ordered plov.
It was okay.
There were quail eggs and horse meat on the side. I thought I was ordering horse meat on the plov.
Apparently not.
The place was a machine — busy, efficient, and clearly popular. I’m glad I went, but I probably wouldn’t go back.
I think the best plov I had on the entire trip was actually from a tiny place in a market near the beginning of my trip (in Bukara)
By this point I had very little energy left, so I returned to the hotel and watched the sunset from the bar at the top.
I couldn’t check in online for my flight, so I wanted to get to the airport early.
Going Home
I was up at 3:30 a.m. for the airport.
And just like that, 27 days in Central Asia were over.
I left Hotel Uzbekistan and headed to the airport.
The lounge at the Tashkent airport was actually pretty nice.
It was also packed.
The flight was completely full.
I ended up in the middle seat next to someone who apparently had a digestive system that had also been traveling for 27 days.
I watched four movies.
Apparently someone at Air Astana had a thing for DC movies and Margot Robbie. There weren’t many English-language movies available, but the ones they did have seemed to involve either DC or Margot Robbie.
The food sucked.
I was hoping to use an airport lounge at JFK, but JetBlue was in Terminal 5 and the lounges were in Terminal 4. I was carrying a large knife for my partner, and couldn’t go through security with it.
Foiled again.
Then TSA confiscated my water bottle because there were traces of water in it.
I was not particularly pleasant about this.
After 27 days of Central Asia, apparently this was the hill I was willing to die on.
I finally arrived back in Raleigh around 5:30 p.m.
Stacy picked me up around 6.
After 27 days away — and knowing she had been really sick the entire week before I left — it was really good to see her face again.
And that was it.
Central Asia was over.
Twenty-seven days.
Four countries.
18k photographs. Think about that…
A few (hell, a lot of) questionable decisions.
One accidentally destroyed national monument.
And a heck of a lot of stories.
References:
Hotels
JW Marriott Hotel Tashkent – Modern Luxury with Panoramic City Views
Located in the modern Tashkent City district, the five-star JW Marriott Hotel Tashkent offers upscale accommodations with spectacular views over Uzbekistan’s capital. Guests can enjoy elegant rooms, floor-to-ceiling windows, fine dining, indoor and outdoor swimming pools, and a luxurious spa. Its location near Tashkent City Park and Tashkent City Mall makes it particularly appealing to travelers seeking contemporary luxury and convenient shopping and entertainment. For visitors willing to splurge, this is one of Tashkent’s most impressive luxury hotel options. Luxury Hotel with Panoramic Views.
Best for: Luxury travelers, couples, and visitors seeking panoramic city views.
Hotel Uzbekistan – An Icon of Soviet-Era Architecture
Overlooking Amir Timur Square, Hotel Uzbekistan is one of the city’s most recognizable landmarks. Built in 1974, this massive Soviet-modernist hotel features an extraordinary curved facade covered in geometric concrete latticework. Although its accommodations are considerably less luxurious than those of newer international hotels, its central location and distinctive architecture offer a memorable experience. For photographers, history enthusiasts, and travelers fascinated by Soviet-era design, Hotel Uzbekistan is worth considering for its character and remarkable location. I stayed here my second time in Uzbekistan and loved it! Yes, it is showing it’s age on the inside but it’s a great price, nice view from bar at top, and full of character. Huge buffet breakfast 7:30-10am.
Best for: Architecture enthusiasts, photographers, history lovers, and travelers prioritizing location over luxury.
(Brutalist exterior of Hotel Uzbekistan)
Sayidat Hotel – Beautiful Views of Tashkent’s Islamic Architecture
The Sayidat Hotel Tashkent Islamic Civilization Centre offers an appealing combination of contemporary comfort and traditional Uzbek design near the historic Hazrati Imam complex. Its standout feature is the opportunity to enjoy views of the magnificent blue-domed Center of Islamic Civilization, one of Tashkent’s most striking architectural landmarks. With elegantly decorated rooms, modern amenities, and an excellent location for exploring the city’s religious and cultural heritage, Sayidat is particularly attractive to photographers and travelers who appreciate Islamic architecture. booking.com
Best for: Photographers, architecture enthusiasts, couples, and cultural travelers.
Coffee
Finding coffee—especially good coffee—in Central Asia was considerably more difficult than I anticipated. Most coffee shops didn’t open until 8 a.m., which wasn’t particularly helpful for an early riser like me. About half the hotels I stayed in served instant coffee (which barely qualifies as coffee in my book). I never found bottled iced coffee in supermarkets, either—just endless selections of energy drinks.
There were a handful of 24-hour coffee shops, but I only managed to find one near my hotels. Naturally, it was inexplicably closed one morning when I needed it most.
If you’re someone who needs a decent cup of coffee to start the day, plan accordingly. You have been warned!
Tours
Find things to do in – day trips (museums and public transport), and more:
Travel Guides
Here is the recently published Lonely Planet Guide. This is what I used to plan the trip (in conjunction with the all-beloved internet):
Another travel guide available for :
Flights:
Buses are slow in Central Asia, and what looks like a short trip on a map can take much longer thanks to those inconveniently tall things called mountains between most destinations. For that reason, I flew whenever it made sense:
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Ryan Fox AWS, NWS, TWSA
Ryan Fox Painting